EMO3000HSS05 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed 4 screw from the under carriage of the microwave then, removed the 2 screws from the motor, replaced the motor and replaced the screws. It was so easy it took only 4 minutes to perform, better than replacing the whole unit (microwave) and less expensive too. i only wish it was made in the US, I wouldn't mind to spend a little more.

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

Removed broken coupler hub and pushed new hub on shaft. Make sure to align the new hub correctly when pushing on to shaft. Repair took less than 1 minute.

First I replaced the cracked cooking tray and I was done.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

This repair was one of the easiest I've ever done. I turned off the power to the microwave at the breaker, lowered the bottom panel by removing the screws, disconnected the wires to the old motor, pulled it out by removing two screws attaching it, attached the new motor with the same screws, connected the wires to it and that was all. The turnable has worked perfectly (and quietly) since.

New one arrived very quickly.

Right part. Right on time. Fit like it should.

Excellent service.

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Put it in place. Ordered replacement over internet on Wednesday and part arrived Friday. Very fast service!

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

I tried to install the new part several times, but it didn't work. So I used a pencil to move things around down the shaft. After that the new part went in and now my microwave is doing what I need it to do.

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.