EMO3000CWW03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Wow! It really was as easy as everyone says. I ordered the part. It came overnight. I took out the 6 screws on the bottom of the microwave (AFTER unplugging the microwave of course), unscrewed the part and unplugged it, put in the new motor, plugged it in and screwed it in, and replaced the bottom screws. The only trouble I had, which really has nothing to do with this part or the repair, was that some of the screws on the bottom of the microwave were very difficult to replace as they didn't seem to line up with the holes beneath. I had a handyman coming to do some deck repairs and had him put those in. Ah well. I did MOST of it myself.

Stephanie, age 52

The old one was extremely difficult to remove, like it was ‘welded‘ in place. I had to crush and destroy it with vice grips in order to get it. it off. The new one would not go on unless I modified it by removing a “spur“ which prevented it from sitting flush with the bottom of the oven. All in all it took less than 25 minutes and it is now working well.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

Open micro owen door. With a spatula(or knife) remove the plastic ban around the glass . It will pop out without any problem. Then remove old parts, save the screws(None given with the spare part), Adjust the new handle and put the screws. The secret is the removal of the plastic around the window Then an easy job...

ordered 2 new sockets and bulbs easy replacement great service from this site

Have a microwave that the light and sockets just broke in pieces so I ordered two sockets from this site . The fit perfectly and it was a breeze to install. Took out 7 screws and the plate dropped down, hooked up the little wire which was so simple and bingo I had lite again. I just wished the hold plate came down but it didn't but it was still very easy to install. Will continue to get my appliance parts from this company.

Very easy repair to replace filters. Step 1: Note position of filter and which end is towards you and position of latch handle. Slide old grease filter away from you and forward until it drops out, Set it aside. Step 2: Take new filter and put in slot away (as you noted) from you then slide towards you until seated properly underneath microwave. Repeat steps for the second filter. It takes about 2 minutes.

Gently remove the interior trim with a putty knife. Remove the two screws holding the old handle in place. Replace the new door handle. Screw the new handle in place. Align the trim and snap it back in place. Confirm the door handle is secure. I applied a little Gorilla Glue to the new handle for added strength before screwing it on.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

I removed the screws that held the bottom in and then dropped it down to access the motor. I removed the 2 screws that held the motor in and unplugged it. I then plugged the new one in and reattached it with the 2 screws and put the bottom back on. It took me about 5 minutes to fix it for only $40.00.

Changed the bulbs and it still wouldn't work. Checked voltage coming from board to the lights and did not have 110 volts. Several relays on board that operate the fan and various other components and all those were working properly. Checked voltage leaving board and did not have any voltage. Thought it may be the board. After replacing the board noticed a burn mark on back of board under the relays.

Checked pricing from GE, Sears and Parts Select. Parts select was a lot cheaper price and exact replacement part. Shipping cost was reasonable and quick.

I removed the inner bracket that held the glass in place with a nylon dish scraper that we use to clean our pots and pans with. It was safer than using a screw driver. I inserted the tapered portion of the scraper between in the bracket and the door edge on the inside of course,then slid it across the opening all around the door until the it separated. Making it easy to remove scews for the handle and the glass bracket.