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Cooktop light receptacle cracked
Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.
Looked at schematic to see which parts became active when the power button was pushed. From there used meter to determine diode was open and capacitor was shorted. Biggest trouble was dis-assembly/assembly required to get to electrical parts.
Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.
First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.
I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.
Troubleshooting process: Using a screw driver I opened the bottom of the unit using a Philips screwdriver and unhooked the drive motor electrical connector. Using a multimeter I checked to ensure power to the motor. This confirmed that the motor is bad and must be replaced.
Repair process: After receiving new motor I removed the old motor and installed the new one using a Philips screwdriver and closed up the bottom cover.
It functioned good as new. Relatively cheap and very easy fix.
Unpugged microwave. Removed the screws on the bottom cover of the micorwave. Unpugged drive motor and removed two screws from drive motor. Installed new motor and replaced the bottom cover, plugged in microwave . . . presto!
Installation was just as easy as numerous other customers indicated. Also, your service was as great as many other customers indicted . . . part was recieved in 2 business days. Thank you for great service and website.
First I removed the screws that were underneath the microwave. Once I did that I disconnected the wires to the bulbs and removed the screws that were attached to the holder lamp. replaced the parts and reversed the process. It went really smooth.
The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).
Micrwave won't run - turntable turns backwards when door opened...
Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...