EL3030WW0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

removed the power, then the back cover. to remove the heating element en closer there is a bolt above the en closer that is a pain to get to and isnt visible but its there. once removed I got my multi meter and tested the resistance on both leads from the element itself they read open or max resistance which is an open or bad coil. I installed the new element and reassembled. after the reassembly I noticed an enormous amount of lint in the exhaust pipe. I removed the pipe then used my had to push it out. once that was done I reassembled and applied power everything worked like a brand new machine would. hope this helps make sure to check the exhaust vent pipe for lint buildup to ensure you dont blow another element.

got my kit from partselect and in no time i was drying cloths.

Removed the back panel and checked each of four thermal connections. The thermostat at the top of the heating element tested bad. I replaced both the top and bottom thermostats. Tested OK. Checked the vent pipe all the way to outside and tested clear. Inside of dryer was clear. Discovered that a visitor did not remember to clean the lint screen before/after each load. We set the dryer now to no more than 30 minutes at a time and ONLY on Medium Heat and it works fine. There is no need ever to use High Heat Setting. I was glad to find Whirlpool-authorized parts. I will never use generics again.

Removed rear panel screws carefully removed panel with out disconnecting wire harness located thermal fuse removed 2 screws removed the 2 wires with needle nose pliers put new thermal fuse in connected the 2 wires carefully put panel back on and tightened screws turned on power and start got heat problem fixed

I diagnosed the problem using the web page. It said that 60% of the people with my problem bought the Thermal Fuse. I unplugged the dryer AND cut the power at the fuse box. I used a screwdriver to remove the vent hose, a nutdriver to remove the back of the machine. The thermal fuse was right there. Removed the old one with a screwdriver, unplugged the wires from the old one and snapped on new one, and screwed it back in. Re-installed the back of the dryer and the vent hose and Whoila! It works like a champ.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

Turn off and unplug dryer, pull dryer away from wall to allow a decent working area. Remaoved use multi meter to assure no current flow, disconnect wires/remove at contact points. Remove panels and screwsnto expose heating element. Continue to remove screws from heating element, the only problem I had was reaching the top screw the is on the inside. I was able to squeeze my hand through an opening with a short/stubby flat head screw driver.

the best tool i had was the instructions from parts select..... THANKS ............

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.

remove back,remove both switches,replace

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

Removed front and back covers on dryer, screws on top and down one side to spread cabinet to remove drum,removed blower cover to get access to shaft nut on that side. The other is accessible. I found that both shafts can bethe longer of the two that were sent. The shorter shaft is too short and needed to be modified to let the roller come outward to lay in the grove in the drum. I will get a longer shaft and replace it.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

I first came to the internet to resolve what was wrong. After finding the video I thought was correct I started. I used my volt/ohm meter to check the thermal fuse as instructed on the video and that was the problem. I ordered the new thermal fuse from PartSelect late in the day and it was in my hands the next evening. With in 20 minutes the dryer was doing what it was suppose to do. The hardest part was getting the back cover of the crier off and that wasn't to bad.