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replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.
The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.
Both oven bake and broil elements lost power suddenly at the same time.
Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,
First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.
It went really well until test when the flame was reaching up into the oven itself, not good. Much research finally found an older repairman who informed me the nozzle that injects the gas into the oven burner had to be fully screwed down for LP Gas. The unit is pre-set for Natural Gas. Tightened it all the way down and everything works just fine. We live rurally so use Liquid Propane Gas, not Natural Gas.
Igniter failing to energize even though there was 120 volts being supplied.
Slide Range away from wall, unplug Range, remove rear cover (4) screws, removed burner assembly (5) screws, unplugged Igniter connector, loosen Igniter bracket, remove Igniter (2) screws. Reverse process to install new Igniter. I also wore latex gloves to prevent touching graphite portion of Igniter. Tested Broiler for operation, slid Range back into position. All good.
sensor should pull into oven enough to easily unsnap and snap but didn't pull out
on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have
Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!