EI30EF55GSE Electrolux Range - Instructions

Easy watched on line video

Unplugged range; removed back cover; removed old oven probe. Installed new probe; replaced cover; connected power and turned on range - that simple. My only issue was probe was shipped in bubble rap and unit was slightly damaged (bent). Once straightened, the probe could be installed. Probe should have been shipped in sturdy cardboard cylinder or box. I called customer service, they were very nice, and noted my feedback on my account in case the unit fails prematurely.

removed screws from back cover then pulled elect. plug apart. removed screw pulled out probe installed new probe put cover back on very easy only problem was that it said that 88% of time would fix the problem. will this time it didn't work oven still over heating.

Pulled oven away from cabinet area
Unplugged oven from wall outlet
Removed screws to free top panel from back of oven
Removed screws to free lower panel from back of oven
Probe backing was now exposed
Unplugged probe from connector
Removed one screw from probe housing
Twisted probe housing counterclockwise then pulled probe out
Reversed the process to install probe
Plugged probe into connector
Reversed the panel removal process
Plugged oven back in to wall outlet
Turned on oven and tested with no further issue

Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?

Followed the parts select video. However there were differences. Four screws to release stovetop from brackets very difficult to break free even once correct bit identified. No spring clips but studded screw and coil springs let elements fall right off underside bracket. Need fours hands to hold back in place to screw bracket back in place to hold elements.

Started with trying to take the door off for easier access to heating element.

I ended up lifting the door off and the front glass shattered and I sliced my hand open.

Ended up buying a new oven/range.

Ordering the part was easy.

Replaced the oven probe because a no heat problem. also had to replace the oven control. That was a bit expensive but still saved me hundreds not calling a serviceman. By the way, it works like new.....

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!

I removed back cover and replaced the probe. The troubleshooting info indicated this is the problem 99% of the time. Guess what, it did not help! Further checks indicate that broil element may be out. Am going to resistance check and order if that is the problem.

un bolted the 6 nut driver heads found probe wire un pluged it 1/4 turn from lock it was in and pull out replace slide in new probe 1/4 turn to lock it in place replace nut driver self tappers and test simple!!

Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)

When I called parts select, the agent was helpful and knowledgeable. She walked me through which rack number was necessary to replace my damaged racks. I received the parts the following day, less than 24 hours following the placement of the order. I will definitely use parts select when needing parts in the future.

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.