EGR3000EJ1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Really simple..Opened the top of the oven and followed the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burners to the back of the oven. Unscrewed top section in back of oven. Found spark module screwed to uppper back of oven on right side. Used a nutdriver to take a few screws out of upper back of oven. Unscrewed spark module from oven. There are six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply....Wires are attached by connectors so didn't have to do anything but pull the connectors off the old spark module one at a time and push them onto the new spark module matching postion of each wire. Screwed spark module back onto back of oven. Screwed back section of oven back onto rear of oven, and that was it. Works perfectly. Saved more than $100 for service call and whatever elevated price they'd charge me for the spark module.

It took considerable time to remove the door and take it completely apart so the gasket could be inserted, and time again to reassemble properly. The gasket (though the no. was confirmed before ordering) was 3" too short so I had to cut some off the old gasket to make do (not entirely effectively).

replaced all four top burner spark electrodes. the same two still didnt work. I had also purchased spark module and that did fix the problem. Lifting the cook top was difficult. I was afraid of breaking the sealed burners. Note there are directions in envelope on the back side of the stove. /use pliers to remove connectors from module. >Getting the top open was the hardest and most time consuming.

openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over

Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Pull plug and shut off gas! The lower oven burner is held in with two rear and one front screws. I removed the top floor of the oven (two hand tightened screws at the back), the bottom drawer, and the front door (just lift it off the hinges). This allowed me to access the burner, and I removed it by unscrewing the three screws, unhitching the igniter connector, and lifting the burner and igniter up and out. I connected the new igniter on the new burner before installing it in the oven, and found that the connector did not match (I was warned about this possibility on the PartSelect site), but instead of splicing the wires together, I cut off the connector on the new igniter and replaced it with the connector of the old igniter. Then I screwed the burner into the oven, recoupled the connector, replaced the floor, drawer, and door, and I was done! It took about 45 minutes.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

determined that the top of the burner was melted and malformed. Repair was simple: lifted off the damaged burner and slipped the new one in place.

the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino

removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.

Very simple repair with no tools required. Turn off power to stove. Remove grates, remove burner, pull old Top Burner Spark Electrode up being careful not to jerk it up hard - wiggle if necessary, unplug wire from old electrode, plug wire into new electrode making sure it fits snug - if not, squeeze it closed a little at a time until it fits snug, push new igniter into place being careful not to force it and crack the ceramic body. Install burner being careful not to damage the electrode, Install grates. Turn power back on and test to make sure it works. It took me all of 15 minutes to change 2 burner spark electrodes. The only bad thing about this repair is that the shipping costs as much as the parts.