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EER3000L01BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the EER3000L01BB
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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lens snapped off on the inside-plug was left loose
popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.
Parts Used:
Lens
  • RICKEY from MONTROSE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Burner spontaneously cycled without knob activation
First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • Anil from Milpitas, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The storage drawer came without supports.
I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.
Parts Used:
REAR SUPPORT
  • Dock from Aurora, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Inside Oven door cracked
Easy
Parts Used:
Door Gasket
  • Deborah from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Broken rear drawer support
Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.
Parts Used:
REAR SUPPORT
  • Jesse from Knob Noster, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Plastic guide Broken
replaced Plastic Guides
Parts Used:
Bottom Drawer Guide
  • NICK from Vernon, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • Melvin from Portland, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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temp sensor in oven was failing.
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Stove overheated with an F2 error
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Richard from PHOENIX, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Burner no longer heats
Remove two screws with nut driver that holds range top down. Turn off breaker or unplug before lifting top. Brace top with 2x4. Take picture with cell phone just in case. Orient replacement part with old burner. Remove one wire at a time and install on new burner in corresponding correcting terminal. be sure they are snug. Drop top install nuts . Test! Done! I am not an electrician!!!!!!!! Please do not publish !!!!
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • Anthony from Apopka, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Not Reaching Temperature above 300 Degrees
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Ron from SAN TAN VLY, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Burner burned out
Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • Daniel from Norborne, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Stove was not getting enough power.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Nathan from Wells, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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burner didn't work
lift stove top, 2 undermount screws. Then unplug 4 wires, I did them 1 at a time plugging into new burner as I go so I wouldn't screw up. Take 2 screws out of old burner to stove top, # all around circle put screws in same # on new burner.Done Good experience all the way around. Order delivery and install
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • Richard from Coon Rapids, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the EER3000L01BB
61 - 75 of 142