EER3000K01BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?

Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!

Parts Select delivered my item quickly and in good condition. The replacement of the baking element was very easy. The following seven steps took less than 10 minutes to complete: 1) Pull the stove from the wall and unplug the oven (This was a great opportunity to ensure the floor area was clean and free from food particles) 2) Use Pliers to remove the back panel covering 3)unhook the bake element from the wire connections 4) Remove the bake element and replace with new one 5) reconnect new element prongs to wires 6) Replace back panel 7) Plug stove into the wall and push stove back to wall. Now I am ready just in time for the holiday baking season.

Open oven door, unlock hinges and lift off. Lay on face on carpet or piece of cardboard. Remove 2 screws at top that go thru door and hold handle assembly. Remove 3 screws on bottom that hold bottom door trim to inner door. Carefully turn assembly over (hold it together so you don't drop the glass front!) and place back on floor, hinge side down. Lift off front glass and frame assembly. Lay flat on floor. Remove 4 screws that hold bottom door trim to side frames. If glass is stuck to bottom door trim (which it probably will be from rust and gunk)..... Remove 4 screws that hold side frames to upper handle assembly and completely lift glass and bottom trim out. Holding glass vertical, stand on the bottom trim piece and carfully work the glass up and out of the groove (do not wiggle it side to side or you will need to buy a new piece of glass). While you have everything apart, clean all the parts and remove the decade of gunk. Reassemble in reverse. The long screws at the top of the door that hold the upper handle assembly in place, have spacers around them, they thread onto the screws and maintain distance and alignment when re-assembling. Also, I found it easier to remove the handle from the upper piece (4 screws) to allow me to lay the whole assembly flat while screwing the bottom, side, and upper trim pieces together around the glass front. Once that is done, then put the handle back on before you assemble it to the inner oven door. That is it !

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed oven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.

I called my dad and he came right over and fixed it. He is a super dad!

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

a) Turn off 240v ckt brkr to the oven p b) In the Rear -Remove the 6 hex screws holding the protective covering c) Remove the two push-on terminals p d) In front, open door to range and remove the two screws holding the faulty bake element p e) Remove faulty bake element and replace with new one f) Replace all screws p

Remove burnt coil and replaced with new coil

ordered both elements to be sure , as they were not that expensive , remove back plate from range , to expose conections , pull off connectiion wires , open the oven door and unscrew with nut driver , follow the same seqence but in reverse put the new elements in . And there you go you have just saved yourself about 100 dallors , by doing it yourself .

Turned circuit breaker off to the range, removed both oven shelves. Removed both screws securing bake element to rear wall of oven with nut driver and pulled element carefully away from mounting location taking care to ensure that the attachment wires remained connected. From instructions previously read online, the wires do not have a lot of slack and if not careful, once disconnected, they may spring back into the insulation and require some fishing around or even having to pull out range and sort out the wires from the back side. Since the wires are attached to the element with push on terminals, I used locking pliers to slide the terminal off an ensure that I had a firm hold on the terminal such that I would not lose the wire end into the insulation, that was a helpful hint. Once the old element was removed it would have been a simple reversal of the process to install the new element, if my wife hadn't looked at the progress and decided that I had to give a thorough scrubbing to a "self-cleaning" oven, that took the majority of the 15-minute time. One side comment: This site saved me a lot of time by reading other people's experience and by a easy order process with prompt delivery.

1. Turned Off Range Circuit Breaker. 2. Take Door Off of Range. 3. Removed Both Racks. 4. Removed Both Screws on rear of oven. 5. Pulled stove all the way out. 6. Removed 5 Screws on the Rear Electrical Connection Cover Panel. 6 Remove 2 Clips from Bake Element. 7. Remove burnt Bake Element. Install in Reverse Order.

Pulled oven out from the wall and removed just the center section of the back that allows you to see the wires and not allow them to pull through. Took the two screws out from the inside of the oven that held the bake unit in place and after unhooking the wires from the back pulled the old bake unit out through the oven and inserted the new unit and fastened in place with the two screws. Then refasten the wire connections in the back of the oven and replace the rear panel. When removing the old burner from the inside lift it up and pull out. Previous ovens I had owned just plugged in and removed from the inside. This model is fastened. Other comments were helpful to me too.