EER2000C04WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

Replacing the gasket is easy and requires no tools. Pull out the ends that are just inserted in their slots. Then work your way around the door pulling out the little metal clips from their holes. Replace the new gasket the same way.

It's even easier to do if you remove the door first and place it on a table--but it's heavy. To remove the door, flip up the hinge clips--you might need a flat screwdriver to do this if they are old and stiff as mine were. Then close the door almost all the way--you'll feel a stopping point-- and pull up. It comes right out--but again, it's heavy.

Replacing the bake element is not much harder. It's easier to do with the door off, but not impossible with the door on. First, pull out the range and unplug it. Then, remove the hex screws holding the bake element against the back wall. The element has two electrical contacts that insert into clips at the ends of wires. Pull out the wires a bit to give yourself some slack, then pull the contacts out of the clips. Insert the clips from the new element into the wires and replace the screws.

If the wires get lost behind the back wall of the oven, it's not a big deal. Just remove the narrow central panel on the back (it has six hex screws) and push the wires back through the wall opening. Then replace the back panel and install the new element.

Unplug stove.
Remove rear panel of stove with a nut driver or socket. Remove knob from switch and use small screwdriver to remove screws on front panel switch. Remove and replace each wire contact one at a time to ensure correct wiring configuration. Replace screws on front panel to secure switch. Plug stove in and check that it works properly. Replace rear panel and move stove back in place.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

Nothing really rocket science here. The oven racks had burned on food, and I just replaced the racks..... slide out the old and slide in the new. Done !

It took a bit of head scratching to remove the oven door. I had read another user saying he'd removed the hinge screws unneccessarily, so I left them alone. I eventually was able to locate the locks on each hinge. Once they were disengaged, it was a simple matter to lift off the door. After that, I removed all the screws (except the hinge screws) and took the door apart. Once it was disassembled, I found two loose triangular pieces, about 1 1/2" long. I later discovered these were spacers for the two top srews. They were placed on end, and the top screws passed through them. All in all, a relatively simple repair, which absolutely amazed my wife, landlord, faily, etc.

Placing the order was very easy. Shipping was fast and excellent packaging. Thank you very much!

On a 18 year old electric GE range: amazing not the exact handle but it does fit perfectly and looks great. If your somewhat handy this is very easy and can be completed in less than a half hour. Save the screws from the old handle, they can be used again.

Removed door from range(see manual for instructions). Set door face down on protective cloth material .Remove two top screwws, 3 bottom screws and lift back of door off. Remove two screws on each side of door bottom channel and remove channel. Put in new trim on bottom of glass window and put screws back in. Set back of door on top of front cover and screw two top screws and 3 bottom screws back in. Set door back into range. Lock clips on both hinges.

I am a 62 year old woman with NO experience fixing appliances However I didn't have the money for a repairman so I ordered the part and googled "Hiw to change a heating element in a GE range". All the instructions were there and now my oven is working perfectly. I even posted on Facebook for my female friends to encourage them to do repairs themselves. What a GREAT feeling.

In this case I had to pull the range out to disconnect the power and also to remove the plate covering the electrical connectors. This was the only way to reconnect the elements terminals since the wires were too short to do it inside the oven. Undo the 2 screws holding the element in place from inside the oven to remove and install the new one before connecting the terminals from the back. Put back the rear cover and reconnect the power.

Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.

First I searched for the part here and I had a slightly hard time finding the correct element on the site.
Then I read the comments of the others and the issues they faced.
I unplugged the range and pulled it out a bit from the wall. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place and put them where I would not lose them. Then I gently maneuved the element out and placed a clothespin on each of the wires to keep them from going back in and then disconnected the wires from the element using a pair of needlenose pliers.

At this point I had to gently bend the new element back into shape as it had been bent during shipping. Then I connected the wires and slid the element into place and installed the two screws.

Double checked to make sure everything was ok plugged in the range, said a quick prayer and set the temperature to 300. When it got to 300 the element shut off and I was happy that the element did not take any other parts with it.