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ED5FVGXWS00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for ED5FVGXWS00 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the ED5FVGXWS00
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refrigerator was intermittently cooling because thermostat contacts burned away.

  • Customer: Dennis from Westlake OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove four screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.

shut off arm broke

  • Customer: Thomas from Va. Beach VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
open ice maker door, use mirror to view slot in front of ice maker, slip piece in place and done

broken shelves

  • Customer: Maria from Albuquerque NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
replaced with new shelves

motor was turning but no ice came out

  • Customer: john e from allentown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
took 4 screws out holding back cover of motor and un plug plug on right ps there is a tab to lift up before you pull plg use pliers to get off old coupling just keep unscrewing it till i catches good threads it will come off and put washers so you dont winde up back on to the striped part of the shaft. YOu rock price is good and the parts are right thanks john belzner

Door chute broken

  • Customer: Dwight from Marietta OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the outside cover plate which was some what scary not to break plastic cover. Had read about another discription of removal of cover to start from the bottom because the top is inserted in slots that would have broken if removed from the top. After cover plate removed it was simple to remove the broken parts and install the new parts. The most difficult part to put back in was the spring and rod had to be inserted the same time.

Ice maker would only deliver crushed ice not cube's

  • Customer: MICHAEL from NORTH PORT FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Switched Electric breaker to off. Removed all food and ice cube tray from freezer. Remove 4 screws on soleniod cover in rear of freezer. Removed two screws, two elec connectors from old soleniod and removed. Installed new soleniod. Reinstalled elec connectors and screws, ice cube tray and food. Turned breaker on . Ice maker worked properly.

The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes

  • Customer: Roger from Sunnyvale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

meat pan and crisper pan broken runners

  • Customer: James from Troy OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
due to over filling and closing the drawers with the door and kicking, the plastic runners broke. Also, over filling the drawers did not help.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is longer than the other. other than that, no problem.

Water running out of cold water in freezer door

  • Customer: Jackie from Niota TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
took back of refrigerator, removed water lines, removed electrical connections. removed 2 screws holding water valve, replaced water valve, replaced electrical connection, replaced water lines. Put back on refrigerator. Tested water on freezer door. Didn't work, had to take refrigerator back off again and check the electrical. I didn't get one of the connection put on securely, Put back on refrigerator, check water on freezer door. It worked. Make sure the electrical connection are connected this will sav you about 10 minutes of repair time

BROKEN SHELF BRACKET

  • Customer: Thomas from Leesburg FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED FOOD ITMES ON BROKEN SHELF. REMOVED OLD GLASS SHELF COVER. REMOVED BROKEN SHELF BRACKET. INSTALLED NEW SHELF BRACKET. INTALLED NEW GLASS SHELF COVER. REPLACED FOOD ITEMS BACK ON SHELF

There was a pin size hole in the tube.

  • Customer: Julia from Seguin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.

The refrigerator side of the appliance did not cool

  • Customer: juan from Weslaco TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I discovered that the freezer was not defrosting automatically and the condenser coil was freezing up blocking the flow of cold air to the refrigerator side. I first replaced the thermostat thinking that it would be an easy fix but needless to say it didn't work. My indicator that it was not a successful repair was the continuing blinking of the filter change light on the control panel. Ultimately I had to replace the control board assembly to solve the issue.

motor coupling weld broken

  • Customer: HAROLD from SPRING HOPE NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

water dispenser not working

  • Customer: Teddie from Sherman Oaks CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Remove side handle from the freezer door ...pop out the black panel from the ice/water dispenser... you need to bend it a little bit to remove... un snap the electrical connections ...the plastic connectors, not from the fridge or the back of the panel,there are plastic connectors (white) in the middle between the fridge & the plastic outside panel.I needed a thin knife to lift the connector snaps to pull the pieces apart. It's not a bad idea to note how they match up so you can put it back properly. unscrew the white panel. There are two screws remove panel.I had to cut the micro switch out of the old style panel. the new panel is much more precise. By the way, if you are replacing the micro switch, it's a good thing to know, there are two. One is for the ice maker, the other is for the water dispenser. You might as well replace both at the same time even if one is working it will save you having to do this again anytime soon.Snap the micro chip into place & thread the wires back through the control panel screw the panel back into the door snap the wires togeather. now test the water dispenser just to be sure. Now arm wrestle the panel back in to the tracks. This is the hardest part. Why it doesn't just slide in is beyond me. Must have been designed by a guy!!! It really is easy & it saved me $300.

Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.

  • Customer: Michael from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.

Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.

Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did not have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)

I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)

I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.

I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.

You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.

I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.

Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.

Done by 3:00PM.
All Instructions for the ED5FVGXWS00
46-60 of 960