E23CS75DSS4 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

After taking the complete motor, tray, icemaker, etc out and finding no problem, I then finally checked for power at the connector at the top of the icemaker. I concluded that there was no pwoer going to the motor. I then removed the circiut board and found the relay for the auger was not working. Putting the new board in took 10-15 min. and then the auger started to work.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

I used pliers to get the remaining shelf support studs out, then the new ones just snapped right in place. Very easy repair!

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

Took the old one out, put in the new one, and after a couple of days, had a bucket full of ice. I had been fighting this problem since within the first year of purchase of the refrigerator. It's so great to open the freezer door and see it full of ice!!!

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

I unscrewed the water dispenser and removed the broken piece. Take your time, it is only about 8 screw that need to come out to reach the area for the new part. The only tricky thing about the fix is a spring behind the part. Make sure its lined up, and you should be good to go. Good luck – take your time.

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

Took me weeks to find the noise after I checked everything electrical in the house including replacing all batteries. Finally, an electrician isolated it to the refrigerator.

Frigidaire Model FRS26LH5DS9 Found several YouTube videos for reference.

Replaced the Run Capacitor and Compressor Start Relay.

Unplug and remove the back panel. On the bottom left side, detach the two old parts together from the compressor. Use a large flat screwdriver to pry them out. (They are held in place with a wire you must first remove.) Plug one new part onto the other and then insert it as one part.

Easy Peasy. The hardest part is getting your hand in a small space and putting back the wire that holds them in.

Don't call a repairman - fix it yourself....

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

Easy-Breezy - took pockets out of door, lifted door out of socket, took out broken bearing - some had to be pried out and pulled out with pliers. Once out, inserted the new bearing and put the door back on by lifting into the top hinge and then letting it down into the receiver at the bottom. It took longer to clean out and put back the door pockets than it did to make the repair. Wish I had done it sooner. I am 76 and female. Should have done this a couple of years ago. Didn't know the problem until I found a part of a hinge on the floor beside the refrigerator. Then it dawned on me what might be wrong so I went online and found that "clicking" was a common problem and what to do - ordered the replacement hinge bearing and made the fix.