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During cross country move, water valve froze and broke.
Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.
Refrigerator wasn't "winterized" ..This is a summer home, the cold winter cracked the water valve
I put the new unit up to the old one to see exactly how it goes, took the 2 screws holding the unt off...Took the 3 water lines off with adjustable wrench, put back exactly the same way and it worked with no leaks
We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).
I read other suggestions trying isolate auger motor shaft with pliers while turning bar drive. needle nose pliers could hold the shaft. bar drive just would spin. so took the whole ice box assembly out (only 2 screws) and with a metal cutting blade used the sawzall to cut along the shaft. freed it up enough to then unscrew it from that point. Left handed threads by the way.
We had someone to come and look at it and we were told it was the solenoid valve. The repairman unstuck it for us and said when it does it again, he would have to order the part. We took it upon ourselves to order the part and DIY. We replaced the part that we were told was the problem and "guess what" it's still not fixed. It's still shooting out crushed ice. Will have to call repair guy back out here to see what we did wrong.
Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.
Following previous installation instructions was very useful. Would add that the nut driver needs to be 1/4 in and to release the water lines from the valve body, simply squeeze the blue ring toward the valve and pull on the water lines at the same time. Simple fix!