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Dispenser door would not open
Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled. Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.
First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.
Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.
Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.
The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.
Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.
Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops
Read the Diagram on Parts Select Site and it only took me about 15 Minutes to disassamble and install the New Parts. Very Easy once I read the Schematic on the site.
Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.
Lower left corner of the door was leaking every so often.
I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.
Unit would only stay on if one was pushing the door
First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.
First I replaced the door gasket as every one else. This cut drips about 30%. I then discoverd that the Rinse Aid circular dispenser cap was opened about half way. I turned the cap tightly clockwise to close and cut drips to 90% total. I czn live with the other 10%,
I opened the dishwasher door, then used the Torx bit to remove the screws all around the edges of the door, and removed the inner part of the door. Then I removed the long metal plate at the part of the door farthest front (with the door open) and the large black plastic housing. The metal plate then became a useful tool to brace at an angle between the door and the body of the dishwasher. This not only held the spring-loaded door down, it also held the inner part of the door up against the body of the dishwasher. One nut held the latch assembly to the door; I removed it with the nut driver. On the latch assembly, there are two small plastic catches that keep the latch from sliding out, I held those out of the way with a blade screwdriver and slid the latch out. The new latch then snapped into place, and I assembled the door again in the reverse sequence of disassembly.
I had to take the complete builtin dishwasher out of the base cabinet in the kitchen.
turn off electricity - circuit box turn of water supply - turncock under sink remove kickplate - screw driver disconnect electric wires - screw driver disconnect water feed - 5/8 wrench remove top screws at counter underside - screw driver pull out dishwasher - hands and son turn dishwasher upside down - hands and son got some water on floor - towel to mop up remove top shower hose ( a rigid pipe with a screw fitting at top and a neoprene coupler at bottom) - hands The neoprene coupler is the part that failed, it had worn thin due to heavy water flow
reverse process - same tools
voila - no water leak
I replaced a Silverware basket at the same time, which took two mintues as I had to remove the handle from the old basket and press fit onto new one - hands
Parts Select had the parts I needed and delivered in less than 48 hours. That is great service.
Both door springs corroded and broke. Linkage connectors broke also.
After pulling dishwasher out both springs easily installed using plastic connectors on the bottom left and right sides. Pliars were used to stretch the springs. It took fifteen minutes at most.
My husband thinks I'm the smartest wife ever! He's telling all his friends how I got online to research the problem (thanks to your readers and DIY comments!), diagnosed it, ordered the parts and - voila - clean dishes once again! It's like everyone said, remove inside of the door by removing 7 torx screws, dismantle wiring -remember to note what connects to what - pop out old parts, easily insert new ones (that arrived in record time!), reconnect wiring, replace door and you're done. Replacing the reservoir o-ring also stopped the leaking problem that preceded the door issue. Thanks PartSelect!
