DV2C6BGWXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

I was working on my daughter’s Maytag dryer model MDE 9700 AYW. The dryer had been making a bumping sound for some time. It had the same symptoms a few years back, but it was still under warranty. The repairman had to replace a drum roller. He told her at the time he should replace all of them but he only had one with him. So when my daughter heard a similar sound she assumed it was a drum roller again so I ordered the roller without taking the dryer part. She has four boys that generate a lot of laundry, so she needs her dryer daily. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get the part or do the repairs. The roller arrived very quickly, I think in a couple of days. The drum rollers on the dryer did not need to be replaced. What I found was bumping the side to the dryer because the sheet metal had popped inward. The drum has very little clearance on either side. The side probably could’ve used another crease or something to make it more rigid. My time wasn’t, wasted. I think it was will spent. I found that 3+ years of lint at piled up significantly on everything. The lint on the shroud for the heating coil had already turned brown and could have caused a fire. I would suggest to anyone who’s had a dryer for a while should open it up and vacuum out the lint buildup.
It only takes a Phillips screwdriver and very little time. It’s a very little investment for your peace of mind.

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.

First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.

Since there were no troubleshooting steps, I had to start replacing the items according to the list that showed the parts that have fixed the problem for others. I ordered one at a time until I got the part that fixed the problem. I went through 4 parts before I replaced the gas solenoids which is what fixed the problem. By the time I was done, I could disassemble that dry in about 5 minutes or less.

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

This was a simple repair. Removed the small access panel where the vent pipe comes through, the roller is right there. Unscrewed the support roller bolt, looking for all the pieces that had broken and fallen inside the housing of the dryer. Using the washers and nut from the old one, put the new roller in place, be aware that you have to lift the drum a little bit to get this new roller in. It could take two people depending on your strength. Tightened down the roller, spin the drum by hand to make sure it was ok, then put the access panel back on and fired it up for a test run.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.