DU2J3 Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I followed instructions of others that were posted. Door seal was simply removing old seal, cleaning track and pushing new seal in,making sure it was even all around. Removing the door cover to get at the Dispenser grommet was simply removing all 7 hex nut screws. Had to go out and buy the proper hex nut screwdriver . I did not remove the wiring, just turned cover over to remove the two nuts holding the dispenser. The nut on the left was a little hard to get off, had to kind of force the socket onto the nut. Otherwise all went well and simply removed the old grommet and installed new one. Finding the right tools was the part that took the longest. I had hard water before putting in a water softener so that was probably hard on the seals plus the machine was an older model. No problems now and saved having someone come in and do a repair.

Once I removed the inside panel from the door replacing the switch was pretty simple. completed the job in less than twenty minutes.

This was the third appliance I have repaired with the help of Parts Select in the last three months.

It was simple. My wife unscrewed the spray arm support nut and then, replaced it with the new parts. It was very simple. My wife was able to do it all by her self.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

I removed the screws holding on the interior door panel. This exposed the soap dispenser latch mechanism. After removing the two retaining screws I transferred the original parts to the new retainer and replaced the grommet prior to reinstallation of the mechanism and interior door panel. A savings of probably $100.00 or more for a service call and parts. Should last a few more years.

I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.

The problem is a worn seal ring. That ring is inside the lower spray arm's spray nozzle support assembly. The wash arm spins on that assembly.

I unscrewed the lower spray nozzle popup, from the wash arm support. That part, from which the extending spray nozzle rotator pops out, simply unscrews, by hand, from the wash arm support. Then I could lift off the wash arm itself to get it out of the way for the next step.

With the wash arm removed, I could then gently pry off the flat filter cover which was underneath the wash arm (the filter cover is simply clipped on. Use a screwdriver).

Now, reaching inside where the that popup spray nozzle was screwed on, you can see and/or feel a tall skinny plastic piece in the center of it, which actually screws that wash arm support onto, well, the rest of the dishwasher.

With that "screw" removed by hand, I removed the wash arm support.

Inside that wash arm support the old ring seal can be removed and the new one inserted.

Simply reverse the process to re-assemble.

Note that it's hard to determine where, exactly, to put that ring seal, inside the wash arm support. But it seemed to me it didn't really matter as long as it was just in there.

Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.

Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.

Removed 7 Torx Screws ... removed inner door panel ... snapped off the selinoid after noting the exact original position ... removed the Latch assembly 2 hex head screws ... removed the old Grommet which was crumbling apart ... stretched the new grommet in place. Then did the steps in reverse to complete a successful repair.
Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

Read the Diagram on Parts Select Site and it only took me about 15 Minutes to disassamble and install the New Parts. Very Easy once I read the Schematic on the site.

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.