DU1030XTXQ3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Sears could not supply us with the replacement cap for the dishwasher. We were saved by being able to get the cap here on your web page.Your web sight is like going into the garage and finding the part you saved up for many years that you knew you would need down the road.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Replaced the dish rack.

Removed the retaining clips on the front of the rail and removed the old rack.

Removed the spray arm assembly from the old rack.

Assembled the new rack, with the supplied parts from the kit. Using the old rack to know where some parts needed to be placed.

Put the spray arm assembly on the new rack.

Inserted the new rack into the rails

Replaced retaining clips.

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

remove front door outer cover,remove the hex screws holding the dispenser.unplug the wire to the dispenser and remove.replace with the new dispenser, fasten with hex head screws and plug in the wire. make sure you put the vinyl flap back in place. close front door cover and fasten.

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

Turned off power, turned off water supply and diconnected, slid out dishwasher. Removed the spray wand and tilted dishwasher to access the two nuts and disconnet the wires. Removed the two nuts using a socket. Removed the old heating element and replaced with the new one secured with new nuts ( the old ones were fine but since I bought two new ones why not). Pluged the wires back up slid the dishwasher back in hooked up the water reinstalled the spray wand cut on the water and power. Good as new.

Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

Make sure you order 2. One on each side

I just placed the cap back on, it worked great, fit fine and so glad I found this part. I was thinking of ways to McGyver it, thinking it would be impossible to find a new part. Glad i fount this site and the part.

I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.

I snapped on the new part onto the track. It was that easy! :) Thank goodness the part was available from Part Select!
T. Edwards