DU1014XTXT4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!

Our Kitchenaid dishwasher was leaking so I called a repair service. I gave the model number and serial number over the phone and explained the problem. I was told the rubber gasket would need to be replaced. When the repairman came 5 days later he told me that the gasket needed to be replaced but he didn't have a new one on his truck. He ordered one and said he would be back in a week to repair the dishwasher. That took 10 minutes at the most. He then gave me a bill for $200.49 ($71.49 for the part and $129 for the labor)that I had to pay right then. I wrote him a check so he would leave and immediately called the repair company to tell them the price was outrageous and that I had never before paid for a repair before the work was done. I was simply told it was their policy. I then told them I was stopping payment on the check - which I did. I checked on-line for the part and found your web-site and the the part I needed for $27.62. I ordered it on a Monday, it arrived on Tuesday and my husband easily installed it that evening. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.

I am NOT an appliance technician. I am simply a somewhat handy homeowner. Removal of outer door panel requires removal of two screws from inside the top of the door assembly at the latch, as well as all of the obvious mating screws from around the perimeter of the inside of the door assembly. Use a #15 torx driver bit. Pull top of panel out (away from the machine) by maybe two inches, then lift the outer panel up to clear the bottom end of it from the lower positioning brackets. DO NOT lever the top of the panel outward. Keep it close to the inner door. It may take bit of an upward tug to dislodge. Careful here - the outer panel will simply fall free. Two wire pigtails that are connected to components on the inner door are short, so be careful not to strain them after dislodging the outer panel. One is connected to the dispenser. Disconnect both as to provide good clearance for the component replacement. The main wire harness is of sufficient length as to not cause a problem. The six 3/16 hex head screws holding the dispenser in place are easy to remove. There are two small sheet metal tabs that keep the device in place after the screws are removed, but a rectangular mounting frame or bezel will come off, along with the little black curtain that protects the unit. The tabs are at upper left and lower right at the perimeter of the opening in the inner panel. They must be levered gently as to allow the dispenser to push inward for removal. After removal, spend some time cleaning the inner surface of the inner panel as to ensure that the new device will make a watertight contact when fastened in place. Bend the tabs slightly back to an inward position, and install the new dispenser with the socket and motor to your left as you look at it from outside the machine. It clicks in to place and stays put. The bezel mounts only one way (in terms of being upside down) and the flat surface must be toward the inner door. Re-positioning the little black curtain is tricky but if you follow the marks in the material from the previous mount it should work out OK. Tighten the screws evenly as to ensure a good seal. Move the outer cover closer and reconnect the two plugs. Use an object to wedge the inner door open by a few inches, and lift the front panel such that you can position it and slide it back down on the inner panel as to re-engage the lower holding brackets. This keeps the bottom of the panel in place during the reassembly. Now for the fun part... The upper end of the outer panel has to be positioned just right against the inner panel in order to seat the two long screws that straddle the latch assembly from the inside. You'll need clamps, or two people. There's a flat rubber seal on the top edge of the inner door. See that it is seated properly, and then that it becomes covered by the outer panel. If one person firmly holds the panels precisely in position, then the other person can install the screws to a point of being mildly snug. The other two longer screws go in the top-most holes at the upper/outer corners of the door assembly. Place them next. From there, you can carefully replace all the rest of the screws. Only after all of the screws are in place should you make all of them tight. You're done.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

Looked under machine, saw wire going to heater was burned off.Seal on heater failed, water leaked onto terminal, shorted and burned, ruined plastic terminal nut.Replaced heater and wire terminal, and nut, took minutes, works great.

removed rack
removed one screw
removed old seal
installed new seal
installed screw

First I identified the problem by checking the plug ends of the heater coil with an ohm meter. I quickly odered the part and when it arrived a few days later, I simply pulled off the electrical connectors, unscrewed the two bolts, removed the old/broken coil, put in the new coil and tightened down the nuts snuggly.
Nothing to it. I then had to reset the error code and it is working like new.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

Removed the bottom plate/cover. Unscrew top from bracket. Lucky,had just enough room to pull washer out. Only 6 in. Sleeve had broken off. Needle nose plyers to unhook spring. Slide sleeve over hinge. Hard Part///. Pull spring back into place. with door shut. good luck.

I removed the lower front panel of the dishwasher to expose wheels and opened door and removed two screws holding washer to cabinet. After raising leveling feet pulled washer out to expose bnotton ow dishwasher. Removed the electrical wires form the heating element and removed screw caps holding the heaqting element in place. Removed the old element and inserted the new, then reversed process to get it back together. It was very easy to do following the instructions I received when I ordered the part.

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Just followed the YouTube video they sent with the receipt.