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DSD26DGWB
DSD26DGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the DSD26DGWB
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Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS304103
Manufacturer #: WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too co...
$27.00
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
PartSelect #: PS964304
Manufacturer #: WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$15.58
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$13.21
In Stock
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
PartSelect #: PS1483583
Manufacturer #: WR62X10055
This part is a possible option when ice door won't open or shut properly or when water is not dispensing.
$64.74
In Stock
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
PartSelect #: PS303781
Manufacturer #: WR51X10055
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.
$106.51
In Stock
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup
PartSelect #: PS964134
Manufacturer #: WR17X11459
This part is found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace this part when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
$49.74
In Stock
Recess Door Spring
PartSelect #: PS285013
Manufacturer #: WR02X10585
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
$9.17
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$9.03
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$11.59
In Stock
DISPENSER LIGHT
PartSelect #: PS16554837
Manufacturer #: WR01X37886
This twelve volt dispenser light bulb is a little under two inches long.
$17.85
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS10066583
Manufacturer #: WR23X23343
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly f...
$8.69
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor
PartSelect #: PS1019114
Manufacturer #: WR60X10185
This evaporator fan motor circulates air to the fresh food compartments for efficient cooling. It powers the evaporator fan that draws air from the refrigerator and circulates it over the evaporator c...
$132.03
In Stock
Questions And Answers for DSD26DGWB
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Common Symptoms of the DSD26DGWB
[Viewing 26 of 26]Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Light not working
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Ice maker not making ice
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Door latch failure
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Freezer too cold
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Will Not Start
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Leaks water
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I
... Read more
had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
Read less
Parts Used:
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Gerald from San Clemente, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
600 of 720 people
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more
/>After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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Parts Used:
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michele from North Smithfield, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
268 of 337 people
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Refrigerator too cold
My repair experience was a little more complicated than previous posts, but nothing major. And most importantly replacing the Fresh Food Air Inlet Cover did fix my problem. Here are the steps I followed:
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the ... Read more fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the ... Read more fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
Read less
Parts Used:
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Marc from Orlando, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
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