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Shrieking noise when the dryer tried to turn
I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.
Completely had to dismantle the dryer to get to the igniter. The screw holding the igniter is a SOB to get at for extraction, and even worse putting back.,
I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.
Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad. The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.
Front roller bearings were bad and figured to do the belt while in there. I bought the manual online which was very helpful. ?? Unplug dryer Remove 4 screws behind touch panel Tilt panel forward then up leaving wires attached Rear has 2 screws on the rear ends facing down remove them at ends Lift rear up then forward push and top will be freed (keep on top) Front edges have 1 screw each but sharp areas watch Open door and remove x 4 screws then lift up and forward bottom has tabs each end to hold in place Wires for light and switch can stay attached, move front/door to side Exposed will be the drum brace.. I changed the x 2 rollers while the drum brace was in place. To undo the rollers you have to use a wrench to reach in as you use a nut driver to remove then re-install new roller with washer on inside and outside (pay attention when you remove) Remove x 4 small screws..... hold drum inside then lift brace up and forward Have assistance hold drum steady with pressure to the back otherwise you will have to align back to the rear rollers Reach into the bottom for the idle pulley to remove drive belt tension... drive belt is VERY SKINNY and has ribbed side that faces the drum. Reverse the steps..
FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.
To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson