DPGT750EC1PL Dryer - Instructions

Put the new lint filter in and it was completed

Initially replaced igniter. Didn't think it was bad though. Read other suggestions on another website. None were the correct diagnosis for my situation. And when I figured it out they did not offer correct part. The dryer thermistor temp sensor (probe sensor) is what I replaced. Found it on Parts Select. I did replace other parts also. But that's the one that ultimately was the issue.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.

Replaced idle pulley wheel, worn drum belt and all 4 rollers (1 frozen) due to dryer age. Site video re general disassembly/re-assembly easily adapted to this model and very helpful with exception of replacement of drum rollers. New rollers received (AGM75510755) were pre-mounted on included shafts. This required removal of existing roller shafts to replace with new shaft/roller units. Site video shows placing a new roller on existing shafts after removing a plastic retaining clip. New roller/shaft assembly is a better option and fortunately I did not order extra retainer clips! Rear drum roller shafts have small carved out space to fit a box end wrench to remove shaft nut. Watch out for sharp edges on internal steel parts!

I watched video by searching by the part number. It was recommended by Sales Lady(Can't remember her name). I removed door from the unit and then removed all the screws on the door. There was about 16 of them. I then pushed on the 2 plastic clips which raised one side of the door. This exposed where the Door Strike goes into. I removed the screw that holds Door Strike in place. Inserted new Stronger Door Strike and lined up hole with screw slot. Screwed back in till tight, thus locking Door Strike in. Inserted all screws back in, and attached door back to unit. Tested fine and have now done several loads no problems. A $4 part would have cost me hundreds by service company. Thanks Part Select!

Followed the instruction on video.was great after three parts now is OK .we have heat.still cheaper than having it service.

There’s all sorts of videos on it I watched. It was actually very simple

Not repariable, ordered replacement and installed with no problems. Replacement was sent quickly.

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

Removed the old damaged filter and replaced it a new one.

Unscrew the screw, remove old part, place in new part, replace screw and you are done.

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

Front roller bearings were bad and figured to do the belt while in there. I bought the manual online which was very helpful.
??
Unplug dryer
Remove 4 screws behind touch panel
Tilt panel forward then up leaving wires attached
Rear has 2 screws on the rear ends facing down remove them at ends
Lift rear up then forward push and top will be freed (keep on top)
Front edges have 1 screw each but sharp areas watch
Open door and remove x 4 screws then lift up and forward bottom has tabs each end to hold in place
Wires for light and switch can stay attached, move front/door to side
Exposed will be the drum brace.. I changed the x 2 rollers while the drum brace was in place.
To undo the rollers you have to use a wrench to reach in as you use a nut driver to remove then re-install new roller with washer on inside and outside (pay attention when you remove)
Remove x 4 small screws..... hold drum inside then lift brace up and forward
Have assistance hold drum steady with pressure to the back otherwise you will have to align back to the rear rollers
Reach into the bottom for the idle pulley to remove drive belt tension... drive belt is VERY SKINNY and has ribbed side that faces the drum.
Reverse the steps..

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.