DLE3 - Instructions

Took apart front and top panels. Eight screws in total. Removed belt from pulley then drum. Removed both support rollers, idler pulley. Installed new items. Five wires that must be removed and reinstalled. I made diagram of wiring. Drum glides remove easy. Install new ones. It is best to install the belt on drum, then on the pulley. Install all panels.

I researched the online how to video and when the parts came went at like a pro!

for a while the dryer was really loud when on. i took the front cover, and could pin point it to the idler pulley wheel. i would squirt some wd 40 on the wheel just to get by. one day the dryer stopped turning so i thought the belt broke. after following the instructions on this site on now to take off the front panel, and tub holder (the panel that has the lint trap in it, i was able to take out the tub and find that the pulley wheel had broke apart. i ordered the new part and got a new belt at the same time. why not replace while i had it apart. i didnt have snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring so i got 2 small finishing nails that would fit in the holes and was able to pull apart the ring and get it off. i slid on the new wheel, and put the snap ring back on. ii watch the video on how to replace the belt and it was a sinch. the dryer was already apart and to fix it, took about 15 min. for $18 in parts, the dryer has never sounded better.parts select saves me money everytime.

I recently found your site and was pleasantly pleased with your troubleshooting suggestions and repair videos. My dryer was sounding like there was a pair of gym shoes inside bouncing around and your suggestion of the drum support rollers was right on the money. My dryer cabinet came apart a little differently then what the video showed but was workable.
I would like to suggest sending the washers that go in front of and behind the drum support roller with the drum rollers. The washers on my dryer were completely ground down to powder so I drilled out some stainless steel washers I had in my supply of extra parts. These washers are hard to find in a hardware store due to being so thin.
I would suggest to anyone changing these drum rollers to go ahead and order/replace the drum belt and front guides as long as you have the machine apart and had to take these off to get to drum rollers. I have had my dryer maintenance free for 17 years and figured they were probably close to being worn out as well. My front guides were paper thin and the drum belt had lots of cracks.
Total cost of bringing dryer back up to par was only $45.00. Saved at least $180.00 doing myself.

Looked on your wonderful site and found two parts that were listed as 80% the problem. Took a chance and ordered both parts. Husband replaced both parts. And, yeah. . . . . . . . . We had heat. So not sure which one it needed. . . . But, the price of your parts beat the costs of any repair man. Thank you so much. We're drying clothes again!!! Lk

took dryer apart and replaced the drum support rollers. This did not work and problem is still there. The videos at the part select did not help since they seemed to be for a different dryer and nothing in them helped in any way to work on my unit. I did get a repair man out and was told that he had not seen one built like this one before.

First off you open the top of the dryer by pressing in the the 2 spring clips with a putty knife or metal spatula if you don't have a putty knife. They are located on the same side as the door. Then remove the wires and label them or take a picture of them so you can put them back on the correct terminals. Remove the 2 5/16" screws and the lift up and pull out on the front panel, set it aside. Remove the 4 5/16" screws on the front bulkhead(the thing with the lint catcher on it) this is what the felt ring is attached to. I used brake parts cleaner and a putty knife to remove the old adhesive. Use High Temperature Silicone or some kind of High Temp adhesive to attach the felt ring. Make sure to place the white side of the ring onto the adhesive. Also there should be a rounded face of the ring and a flat face, make sure the rounded face is facing outward. Bead a good amount of adhesive onto the outer ring of the bulkhead and work the felt ring around inch by inch. Don't rush this process or you will have a mess. If you do its okay just use a rag and the brake parts cleaner to wipe down any excess adhesive. Let it cure for 24 hours, otherwise it might make your clothes smell like the adhesive and possibly ruin them. Before replacing the bulkhead back onto the dryer, replace the drum glides. They should be on two brackets below the felt ring. These are important and if they are damaged or missing it can cause more serious problems down the road. Put everything back in reverse order. Make sure the drum and the drum glides are lined up properly. Test the dryer while its empty.

Unplug dryer. Front of dryer has two hold down clips that lock the top of the dryer down. I used a small putty knife to locate the locking clips(2) one on Front Left and right about 3.5 to 4.0 inches from each side. The top is hinged in the rear just lift front of top up and raise it up. looking down on the front of the dryer there are two sheet metal screws one on Left and right. Remove these two screws. There are also two sets of wires that attach to the front panel, Remove them and note their positions. The front panel can now be removed by leaning it forward then lifting it up off the two tabs on the bottom. Now you have another plate to remove. Remove the sheet metal screws on each side. This panel is a guide to hold the front of the dryer's drum, remove it. There is a belt that runs around the drum and to pulley system at the back of the motor. There is a spring loaded idler pulley that needs to be moved so the dryer belt can be removed from the motor. Now the drum can be lifted slightly and removed from the unit. Now it is time to remove and replace the parts I had ordered. These are located at the Left rear of the cabinet. Note wire positions and remove wires. The Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are attached to the heating element plate. Two sheet metal screws hold the element plate in position. Remove them and the plate will come right out. The sheet metal screws holding the Fuse and Thermostat on the plate will need to be removed and used to install the new parts on the new Heating element plate. Install new element plate and attach wiring. Now reverse the take-down procedures to put dryer back together.

Replaced the (High Limit Thermal Fuse) & the (Limit Thermostat). Two screws to take off front of dryer, then I took out two screws on each peace, then switched the two wires on each peace done! Simple as that. I ordered the parts on Sunday night & received on Tuesday! All went great.

The first problem i had is that the idler pulley went out for the dryer drum. Part of the plastic pulley melted and the drive belt eventually broke. I got the parts to replace the idler pulley and belt from PartSelect. That was a pretty easy repair, but when i had it apart I noticed a small crack in the aluminum pulley on the motor drive shaft, I'm assuming because of the heat generated by the seized up idler pulley. I put it back together anyway. The dryer made it for 2 or 3 batches of clothes and the aluminum pulley on the motor shaft came apart. Turns out the only way to replace that pulley is to replace the motor. The cost for the new motor wasn't all that much and the dryer is in otherwise pretty good shape, so I ordered the new motor. The motor assembly was easy to replace and works great. Glad I was able to get it fixed without too much expense. I literally spent less that an hour altogether with both repairs. I was happy with the parts and service from partselect.com, they also have great how to videos.

On line video was great and easy to follow. The only problem I encountered was with removal of the front panel. Ours is a 20-year old dryer and the front configuration is different. You cannot lift the top, as shown in the video, before you remove the front. There is a lower front panel that has two 5/16" screws at the bottom and drops off. There are two 5/16" screws in the bottom of the door panel which allows it to drop off. Finally you remove two 5/16" screws in the brackets that hold the top to the sides and the top then tips up and to the rear. From there on the video is perfect.

Really easy popped the lid with a flat head screwdriver, then marked wires for door light and switch, took 2 5/16 bolts to remove front door, then 4 bolts also 5/16 to remove front panel but be care ful and remove drum belt then take panel and drum out. Then took a set of ring pliers to remove wheel slapped new one on.then reverse sreps to assemble.