DHDVH52EF0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!

I was teaching my associate how to do this repair so I showed him how to take off the top of the dryer. Then I showed him how to replace the drum slides. I had him clean out the dryer since we had it apart, and I also showed him how to remove the drum and then reinstall it. This was a very easy repair, and he learned a lot that he otherwise would not have known. Thanks for getting the parts to me so quickly. Rob from Clarks Summit.

took off top of dryer, took out 2 screws so front of dryer could be removed, replaced bearing,slides and felt seal

Disassembled and removed drum according to directions on this site. Ordered parts and replaced per instructions - - easy as unscrewing and rescrewing old bearing assembly. Hardest thing was putting the belt on - as I did it fromthe front side and the recommendations are to access from the back kick plate. I did not want to wreck the vent tube so I left the dryer in place and did the entire job from the front.

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

I followed the great tips from the other repairs and that part was easy. Turned out not to be the exact problem. The problem was the rear bearing shaft which in another 20 min I had the drum out and repaired. Now the dryer is like new and will hopefully last another 5 yrs.
Thanks Parts Select for your help!

remove move 2 screws holding top of dryer down.then remove two top screw holding front panel on so i could get to were my slide bearing where at poped them out and slide in new ones then put it all back together that was it

todd e line eaton ohio usa

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

It was simple to get drum out. I took all screws holding top and door out with out problems, then released the drive belt. It took some wiggling to get the drum out. I then was able to get at the rear elements. Taking the wires off the thermostat came off with a little persuasion. Removing shaft from drum took some stretching as I was doing the work by myself. I would suggest that a helper be used for the removal and replacement of the shaft. Reassembly was easy. Just reverse of the above.

took it apart and replaced faulty parts, the slides were bad

All the stores had either a smaller watt or a larger watt and the book suggested always using the correct watt. I was glad to find it on this sight and it was delivered very quickly.

removed two phillips screws from front panel, removed front panel and raised top cover, had my wife hold up top cover while i removed belt and installed new one, reassembled in reverse order, turned on dryer and checked for proper operation, and yes i did unplug the unit. worked great!!

Initially purchased just the plastic slides, but when I opened the dryer I found the top drum bearing was smashed and the plastic was basically gone in a whole section, so I then ended up ordering the bearing as well. If you hear the loud squeaking, just buy the top drum bearing and the 4 slides (two white and two dark green). It is an easy repair and the squeaking sound is gone.

The top and front of the dryer had to come off, and taking off the top (and later putting it back on) was the hardest part. The old seal was stretched approximately two feet longer than the replacement part, and its thinness caused the drum to squeak as it scraped by the door panel. We simply pressed the new seal into place after pulling out the old one. Piece of cake. Putting the front of the dryer back on was simple as well. Fitting the top back into its slots properly was the biggest pain of the whole ordeal. The part came in about 2 days. Thanks!