DEC5DW1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

The other door latch broke and fell out. I simply pushed the New Door Latch in the hole, and it snapped into place.

Everything I needed to know was already on your website. Prying off the top of the dryer (with a big screwdriver under the front of the top) was the hardest thing, since I was afraid I would break something. Only then can the front be removed (taking out just 2 phillips screws). The rest is easy.

Never knew I was handy, but I did it! I was reluctant to spend a couple $100 on a repair visit, so found this site and bought the coils I needed for only $26+tax. It's pretty easy. I just lifted up the top of the dryer with a screw driver, should snap open. Then unscrewed the front panel with two screws from the inside. Then located the old coils on the bottom left. The bracket that holds them is a little difficult to remove as you need to have a small philips screw driver to get the back one. But once I got that off, just unplugged the old ones and put the bracket back, then the panels and it WORKED. The only problem I have is that I didn't take the door switch off properly and now the dryer doesn't stop spinning if I open the door and want to check the clothes. So I may have to get someone in eventually.

pushed screwdriver into the two clips between the top and front to release the connection. took off front. at the bottom front left side, took out screws to access parts that needed to be replaced. put everything back together. dryer works like new. easy.

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

I replaced the latch on the body and on the door and it worked very well. I had to watch the video first. Thank you.

My son kept slamming the door wrong and eventually the catch broke and two and feel out. My husband is the handy man of the family, but has been so busy that I was just duck tapping the door close. Finally, I decided to see if I could look up the part. Found it on here, ordered it, and replaced it all myself! Proud mother right here! Very easy. Works great.

after checking on line, i shut off the gas and disconnected the burner unit from dryer. after removing unit i tested all electronic parts and found the igniter was bad. i removed same and ordered new part. when new part was delv. i reinstalled the unit and all worked like new.

Your website was very helpful in narrowing down and diaganosing the problem. A continuity tester verified an open solenoid. Ordered Sunday evening, parts arrived Tuesday. Ignition coils drop in place with a holddown bracket and one screw. Wiring harness is reattached. Front of dryer is put in place followed by the top. Plugged in the dryer (it is just commom sense to have the power off). Started dryer, of course it ran WITH heat. The end of the story is HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE. Happy to do business with you. Tom , MI

It was super easy ! The part came and I had it done in less than ten minutes. No mechanical skills necessary !

There was no heat, the dryer worked in all respects but the flame did not come on to dry the clothes. I suspected the ignighter so I disconected the wire leading to the ignighter and tested the electrical connection with a regular tester used for testing 120 v ac circuits in a normal residential house outlet. I turned the dryer on and used the tester on the incoming electrical line that I disconnected from the ignighter there was power so I determined that the trouble was with the ignighter,it took about ten minutes to replace the ignighter after I received the part from partselect. The dryer worked fine with the new part. A fairly simple job to take the burner out and install the ignighter.

Inserted clasp in frame of door

no instructions or videos were of this particular unit but the parts appeared to be quite similar across all dryers. Could not find all parts described as potential fails, but found the ignitor to have no continuity. Also replaced ignition coils as they have a high probability of failure. Cleaned everything as well as possible and put dryer back together in reverse of disassembly.

Popped in new catch and used needle nose pliers to squeeze old latch flat and remove from door. New one just popped into place.