DE600ADD3 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Frigidaire / electrolux stack washer dryer
Removed door panel,top,control panel not sure all needed to be removed except door then removed 3 screws in center at rear of drum this disconnects the drum to shaft that secures it in place ( could not find info on that step and is the reason for writing this hope it helps , reassemble in reverse

Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

First: Remove front and top cover
Second: remove electrical cover assbly
Third: motor belt removed
Fourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replaced
Now I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum

After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

UNPLUGGED DRYER.
1. I used a putty knife to pop the clips in the front. This allows the top to open like a car hood.

2. There are two screws one on each side holding the front to the body. Then there are clips which can just be pulled.

3. There are some electrical connections. I made a diagram and disconnected them.

4. The front slides up off two tabs at the bottom.

5. Peel and scrape off old felt. install new felt using high temp glue and clamps. The top one the plastic guides go to the top.

6. The belt has a tensioner on the bottom right and comes off easily.

7. There are three screws in the middle of the back of the drum. They were very tight and require a good phillips head screw driver.

8. Drum lifts out the front.

9. Unscrew the ball bearing assembly from the back, put the high temp lubricant on the ball.

10. Re-assemble in opposite steps.

Plug in and test.

Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

Part arrived earlier than expected & when replacing the knob I merely lined it up with the timer shaft which was a 1/2 round shaft. It slipped on very easy & I just pushed the knob on as far as it would go. Replacement of the knob makes life much easier in being able to turn the timer on without use of a wrench. Very, very satisified customer.

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.

1) Removed rear louvered panel (used nut driver to remove two screws) to access damaged idler pulley. Pulled idler pulley assembly out of the slot of the spacer portion of the idler pulley mounting nut (screws into motor housing) and detached spring. Installation of new idler pulley is reverse of removal.
2) Removed door (6 phillps screws). Disassembled door by removing 2 screws that attach front and back plate of door. Reomved old damaged door gasket and installed new door gasket.

I thought I was going to have to buy a new dryer. I thought it was the whole cycling mechanism....I could see $500.00 being spent. When I tried to take off the knob it fell in pieces in my hand. I tried to get by with just turning it with a pliers to to any cycle and just time it till the clothes got dry.

Then I thought "I wonder if I could google it and maybe find anothe part. Never have done that before!!" I narrowed my search to Westinghouse dryer knob.. On the back of the knob was a part # ..I included that too. I went to Part Select.
Bingo, almost immediately it came up...with pictures and dimensions. There was my part and with the number on it.
I ordered it immediately, The cost was $26.00. I was told via e-mail the part was available and it would take 3-5 days. The time was 4:00PM. The next day at 3:00PM the door bell rang and there was my part...in 23 hours.
In 15 minutes the knob was on and the dryer was working perfectly.
My wife was elated. I was proud of myself for being able to actually do it myself and save us $475.00
Twas a great experience and gave me confidence to tackle other jobs around the house.
Thank You for allowing me to tell my story.

The most simple repair I have ever done! The knob was shattered and no way to glue it or reattach it to the stem. A bit of the knob plastic was still stuck on the metal stem on the dryer to which the knob attaches. I simply pulled that bit of plastic off with a pliers and popped the new knob on - EASY!