DE500 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The lower dish rack rolls directly out of the dishwasher without problem - there is no permanent attachment. The new rack comes as a kit, which includes the 4 required dish rack wheels (Part # 6 in the diagram). One part (only) from the original dish rack needs to be removed and re-installed on the new rack - the upper spray arm tower (Part #5 in the diagram). That is easily removed from the original rack with a 1/8 counterclockwise turn, to disengage the 'feet', and installed on the new rack with a 1/8 clockwise turn. The kit is designed to allow for use on multiple models, so there are 'extra' parts left over, after it is used for the DU8500XX-2 dishwasher. These can be discarded.

THERE WERE NO INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED, COULDN'T FIGURE 0UT HOW TO INSTALL THE NEW ROLLERS ON THE NEW RACK FINALLY INSTALLED THE OLD ROLLERS ON THE NEW RACK AND THEY WERE MUCH EASIER TO INSTALL I DONT UNDERSTAND
WHY THE NEW ROLLERS WERE THE SAME AS THE OLD ROLLERS
EXCEPT FOR THE COST.

installed a new rack

Since there were no printed instructions, we looked at the photo schematic.
Reassembly using the photo was easy by putting the old rack alongside the new one and adjusting the new rack spacing to match the old one.
We also had new wheels which snapped on.
We were delighted to repair and replace this good, older dishwasher rather than purchase a new one!

Removed the back - Saw the broken clips on the base of the dryer (the wires to the motor were pulling out because the motor was slipping).

Guessed that the parts were motor clips (no pix in the web site!)

Got the parts in post - they were identical except needed some rubber grips inside to hold tight (Used pieces of bike tire inner tube cut to fit for this.) Attached clips. Works fine!!

(Son is an engineer - he found the problem. Husband is a retired doctor - he couldn't!! but together they
supplied the muscle)
Sue (67 years old)

The rack came with pictorial instructions which were fairly veg, however they were to the point. The wheels snapped into place easily, and the center water transfer tube twisted off the old one and twisted on the new one just fine. It is a very good idea to keep the old one out to look at as a guide. There were no instructions on how to remove the transfer tube, I was lucky to have already worked on these before. After that it fits and works just peachy.

I ordered a new rack, snapped the stuff together, and slid the old one out and the new one in. Fit beautifully. Piece of cake and much cheaper than a new dishwasher.

replaced worn parts

Assemblies snap on, no tools needed

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

If needing to replace the heating coil make sure you order/replace the insulators that are fried, when the heating coil gets shorted out. I usually need to replace two or three of them. 1. Disconnect power cord. 2. Remove the front door by lifting it "up" off of the hinges. 3. Remove rear panel 4. Draw a diagram of the (5) wires/colors that attach to the drum housing and disconnect them. 5. Remove (2) rear screws for top and slide the top forward to disengage it. 6. Support the top with a couple of boards across the sides. 7. Remove (4) screws, located on the door recess, that retains the metal heating coil shroud. 8. Remove the (2) screws that retain the microswitch & upper hinge. Leave the wires attached to the microswitch. 9. Disconnect the (2) wires to the heating coil shroud. 10. The top can now be placed on the floor behind the dryer. 11. Remove the (6) bottom screws for the sides and slide the entire sides and front away from the base, enough to get access to the heating coil shroud. 12. Remove heating coil shroud, replace damaged insulators and the heating coil. 13. Re-assemble in reverse order. Note: Before re-attaching the rear panel, the drum must be centered with the cabinet. This can be checked by looking in from the back at the drum clearance to each of the cabinet sides, making sure there is equal clearance on each side. Shim under the base to center the drum. Now replace the rear panel and "secure" it, because this is the only way the dryer drum (on the base) will remain centered in the cabinet when the dryer is moved back to its original location and leveled.

Remove dryer back,release spring tension to remove belts. Clean lint and pulleys. Replace belts,spring tension and back and LEVEL Dryer. NOTE: The back is part of the frame, make sure all screws tighten DO NOT omit any.

New lint screen

Bought a house and inherited an ancient set of appliances. I figured that they dont make em like they use to so why get rid of them. Noticed the dryer tub wasnt spinning one day after running through three cycles. I took the back off and realized the belt that made the tub spin was broke. Went ahead and ordered both belts (old age catches us all) so i wouldnt have to order the other a few weeks later. Pulled the spring took the old belt off put on the new ones like ya would a bike chain. Used the pliers to put the spring back on and voila.