DE406 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

The rack came with pictorial instructions which were fairly veg, however they were to the point. The wheels snapped into place easily, and the center water transfer tube twisted off the old one and twisted on the new one just fine. It is a very good idea to keep the old one out to look at as a guide. There were no instructions on how to remove the transfer tube, I was lucky to have already worked on these before. After that it fits and works just peachy.

Removed the back - Saw the broken clips on the base of the dryer (the wires to the motor were pulling out because the motor was slipping).

Guessed that the parts were motor clips (no pix in the web site!)

Got the parts in post - they were identical except needed some rubber grips inside to hold tight (Used pieces of bike tire inner tube cut to fit for this.) Attached clips. Works fine!!

(Son is an engineer - he found the problem. Husband is a retired doctor - he couldn't!! but together they
supplied the muscle)
Sue (67 years old)

I ordered a new rack, snapped the stuff together, and slid the old one out and the new one in. Fit beautifully. Piece of cake and much cheaper than a new dishwasher.

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

replaced worn parts

Assemblies snap on, no tools needed

Removed back cover of entire dryer.The thermostat was accessible from that point(Just as diagram showed), removed two wires from thermostat, removed thermostat & replaced with new thermostat & plugged 2 wires back in just as instructions indicated. Very simple,15 minute job. I will certainly use again for any appliance repairs.

After removing the front of the dryer it was evident that the blower boss had broken where the motor shaft comes through and is attached. I removed a few more parts to make the blower more accessible and removed it. I then machined a new boss and attached it to the blower and reinstalled it.I then did a quick continuity check on the three thermostats since the dryer was already apart.I discovered one was faulty and ordered a new one from you.That repair took all of five minutes.The irony of the whole thing is that while I was ordering the thermostat from you,I asked out of curiosity,if the blower was still available. As it turns out it still is but the new machined part worked out great and the dryer was back up and running in no time.

Thanks again,
Dave

ordered wrong limit switch had to reorder right switch and decided to replace the heater element as well. works fine now

replace the water valve

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

Took the back off the dryer. Disconnected the old thermostat and installed the new thermostat. Connected the back of dryer. Put in a load of clothes to dry and the clothes were dry on the first try. Works like a new dryer. Saved a lot of money not having to buy a new dryer when all I had to do was replace some old parts.

If needing to replace the heating coil make sure you order/replace the insulators that are fried, when the heating coil gets shorted out. I usually need to replace two or three of them. 1. Disconnect power cord. 2. Remove the front door by lifting it "up" off of the hinges. 3. Remove rear panel 4. Draw a diagram of the (5) wires/colors that attach to the drum housing and disconnect them. 5. Remove (2) rear screws for top and slide the top forward to disengage it. 6. Support the top with a couple of boards across the sides. 7. Remove (4) screws, located on the door recess, that retains the metal heating coil shroud. 8. Remove the (2) screws that retain the microswitch & upper hinge. Leave the wires attached to the microswitch. 9. Disconnect the (2) wires to the heating coil shroud. 10. The top can now be placed on the floor behind the dryer. 11. Remove the (6) bottom screws for the sides and slide the entire sides and front away from the base, enough to get access to the heating coil shroud. 12. Remove heating coil shroud, replace damaged insulators and the heating coil. 13. Re-assemble in reverse order. Note: Before re-attaching the rear panel, the drum must be centered with the cabinet. This can be checked by looking in from the back at the drum clearance to each of the cabinet sides, making sure there is equal clearance on each side. Shim under the base to center the drum. Now replace the rear panel and "secure" it, because this is the only way the dryer drum (on the base) will remain centered in the cabinet when the dryer is moved back to its original location and leveled.

Remove dryer back,release spring tension to remove belts. Clean lint and pulleys. Replace belts,spring tension and back and LEVEL Dryer. NOTE: The back is part of the frame, make sure all screws tighten DO NOT omit any.