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Dryer wouldn't spin, belt broken
Popped the top of the dryer off. Removed 3 screws from lower front panel. Removed front panel slide belt over drum, remove 2 bolts from rear panel and installed belt over motor and around idler tensioner. Reinstalled front panel and top of dryer . Also greased idler pulley to shaft , beings tensioner was okay. Plugged in and tested dryer, it was okay. We went to PartSelect. com and order the belt and it was fast shipping. We couldn't find the belt anywhere else. Thanks for PartSelect.
I took the front part off, then removed the old belt out and installed the new one in. Also fix the tensioner wheel (it had come off) After I posisoned / aligned the belt. Also cleaned the whole dryer with compressed air, it was really dirty and nasty, this dryer has not been cleaned in 20 years, overall I had a great experience with parts select, they send the parts real fast.
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.
I first removed a vent cover in the back where the idler is located. With pliers I removed the tension off the spring. Next I simply slide the idler off the post. I pulled up on the top panel which opened like a clam shell. I used a flat blade screw driver to separate the front panel from the dryer so I could slide the new belt around the drum. I reversed the steps. All in all it was easy. It took me about 30min including cleanup.
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room. 2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end. 3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where. 4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver. 5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place. 6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws. 7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary. 8. lift up and pull out the drum. 9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts. 10. repeat in reverse and your done. It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well The video instruction was very helpful Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude Dryer running great now All parts from Partselect.com Have ordered from them before and would order from them again
Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
I raised up the top then took 4 bolts out of the front and it came off and then I slipped the belt on. Now was the fun part. I tried to put belt around the tension spring from the front of the machine. Bad mistake. So I turned the machine around and took off little plate bottom left, back side reached in and WA-LA back in commision. I took a long brush and cleaned all I could reach and put it back together. Bingo, back in business. And I'm 71 yrs. old.
Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.