DDC4500SNMWH Dryer - Instructions

Watched that igniter glowed for usual 15 seconds. Gas did not flow so tested solenoids for ohm resistance across leads. One was bad, less than 1350 oms (as I recall). Ordered the M series coil (solenoid) kit at Part Select, arrived the next day. Replaced them in 5 minutes. Took about 15 minutes to vacuum lint + dust out base of dryer area. 5 more min to put front of dryer 4 screws in and mount dryer door!

1)Pulled electrical connectors off each of two gas valve coils. 2)Removed two Phillips screws and removed coil retainer bracket. 3)Lifted off two old coils and replaced with two new coils. 4)Replaced coil retainer bracket and plugged back connector on each coil; total coil replacement time is less than two minutes. 5)Confirmed gas valve opens and gas ignites every time over a two day test period. 6)Re-installed door. Wife Happy. We spent under $20 for 'M' series new style coil kit; and the $7 shipping got it here in two days. What a deal! Terry Rahmer 8.24.2012

the repair was an easy fix, I removed the two screws from the brackets holding the coils, disconnect and removed them installed the new coils connected plugs turned on dryer and I got heat not bad at all thank you for the help

Removed top & front by unfastening 4 screws and disconnecting 2 wires. The new slides slip right into slots and the new felt just tucks in with a flat screwdriver tip. Unfortunately, putting the top & front back on required loosening the control panel. That required a hex driver. All & all this old lady just needed a second set of hands to line things up for reassemble!

After researching the problem, I thought the solution would be to replace the two terminal coil valve, but wasn't 100% sure it wasn't the 3 terminal coil, so I bought both. the dryer is 13 years old so I thought it deserved new coils. My husband was away for the week and I had about 10 loads of laundry to do. I dreaded the thought of going to the laundromat, so I went ahead and ordered the parts, thinking I would call a handyman to install them once they arrived. However, I found a Youtube video showing exactly what I had to do and thought it looked easy enough. I unplugged the machine, removed the front hatch and the 2 small screws holding the coils in place. I unplugged the old coils, used a vacuum to remove the dust in the area and installed the new coils. I popped them back into place, screwed them in, replaced the hatch, plugged the machine in, and VOILA!!!! A dryer that heats!!!!

Snapped it in place.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

the replacement part was easy to replace but remembering how the belt went back on took alittle more time..

removed 2 screws that secure top to front of dryer, then removed 2 screws that secure front to sides, tilted fornt back to clear drum, lift front panel up off of bracket at bottom of dryer, removed old felt seal amd slides taking note of how the were positioned. replaced them with new parts. set front panel back on brackets, lifted drum and moved panel forward positioning it in bottom of bracket on top of seal moved panel forward until bearing were inside ring on drum. put screws back in securing front to sides panels, moved top back into position, put screws back in that secure front to top. started back drying clothes.

Initially diagnosed the failure mode as a faulty thermal fuse and when the fuse was replaced was encouraged to find the heat working...then it shut off again. After a period of time that the dryer was off the heat would come back on. After reviewing the site extensively I found a description of the failure mode similar to mine and determined to replace the 2-terminal & 3-terminal coils (kit is less expensive than either by itself). My older Whirlpool dryer needeed to have the top panel removed in order to get to the front panel screws and once the front panel was removed the coil assembly was pretty easy to identify. The retention "plate" was attached via screws that were a little tough to get to but an offset phillips screw driver did the trick. The coils were "keyed" in such a way that they would only insert one way to be properly oriented. So I've earned my appliance repair merit badge.

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

The repair for the average untrained mechanicslly inclined " first off google directions/instruction picture step by step " we took off the wrong part which made this job difficult there is a part on the back that was removed prior to guided directions, called parts select they are awesome"our belt was delivered the next day on a 3 day weekend I was suprised second correct part sent anyone who took on this job , they will appreciatte all this . the belt was fairly easy to repair just do as directed follow guidelines. difficulty detaching a part that never should be"pain in the a" order your part from this company they rock" and picture guide and specific direction guideline @ this dryer has well outlived the money spent still kicking strong after several years of use hotpoint dryer

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.