DDC4400SNMWH General Electric Dryer - Instructions

The part was delivered in record time. That was the best part. And it fit perfectly and was the correct color. The other filter was grey and the dryer is white. Thanks for being so efficient.

Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.

I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.

I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.

I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.

Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.

Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.

Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.

All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.

First i removed the lower rear inspection plate to see what the problem was.
next i removed the screws in the front top panel.
next i lift the top back,the rear hinges held it in place.
next i removed the bolts that held the front panel in place,but before i removed the panel i removed the wires that were connected to the front elements and disconnected then,
next i removed the front panel,then i place the new dryer belt over the dryer drum,but first you have to rise the drum up a little to get the belt under it.
next i put all the front panels back in place,make sure you reconnect the wires that you removed earlier.
next i moved to the back panel, there i position the belt over the dryer drum,then i place the belt over the motor drive pulley, then i pull down the tension bar roller to the left and place the belt over it.Then i replace the rear panel in place.plug in the power core and turn it on. finished. After over 35 years this is the first time i had to replace the belt,matter of fact this is the first time i had to replace anything on this dryer, washers will that is a different story. but the dryer runs great maybe for another 30 +years LOL.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

snapped in new latch

watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!

Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?

Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryer

My belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.
Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.
Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.
Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORK
Take careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.

First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.
With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.
Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel.
( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )
The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of
2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.
Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.
Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )
Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )
Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws )
Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.
The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.
Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.
( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)
Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.
Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.
Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.
A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.
Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.
It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragile

Helpful hint.
At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.
Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.

To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.

Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.

If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.
Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.
Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.
Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.
Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.
Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

Clips on the inside of the door handle had snapped off, 1 minute later it worked like new. NO TOOLS required! So happy my older appliances can have new life by the parts carried by PartSelect. Thanks!

My husband broke the door handle, but of course, i had to be the one to order the part & fix it. I ordered the part on the weekend and much to my suprise it was on my doorstep on Tuesday when I got home from work. Then I saw the part was shipped from nearby Louisville. I was overly happy with partselect!!!!! All I did was open the packaging and clip the dryer handle into the 4 holes. Easy as pie!!!!

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!