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Screeching noise and black burn marks
I read the repairs that others had posted and how they did it. It was really easy. My only complaint is that I didn't know that I needed the slides that attached to the bearing and couldn't find them on the repair list. My dryer had a spot for 4 of them and only 1 was left. Otherwise, being a female, I felt great to be able to fix it myself! Thanks! Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.
Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...
Our gas GE "Eterna" King Sized capacity dryer started squeaking one day. I was suprised since the dryer was only a few years old, but assumed some grit had invaded and worn a bearing in the belt tensioner. My wife and I have three kids, so we use the dryer daily. The sound got louder quickly and finally it was so loud I had do something. After unplugging the appliance I took the top off the dryer (two screws in the top of the door jam) and the front off (two screws at the top of each corner) and in doing so saw that the drum bearing, which is just a round plastic "shelf" on which the tumbler drum rides, suspended over the door, was worn through. There were four little "slides" on the bearing surface, and all but one was worn down to dust. I ordered the replacement bearing and slides (two white, I didn't know I also needed two green and have since bought them too) from Part Select and they arrived in about three days. In the meantime I re-assembled the dryer easily and we did use it once or twice, shrieking. When the parts came in I installed them in about 20 minutes, screwing the new bearing onto the rear surface of the front panel, right over the opening for the dryer door. The dryer has worked perfectly since. I used one Phillips head screwdriver for the whole job and paid about $50.00 for the parts. I work in an office and I travel, and when I was a kid I fixed my own cars and stuff, but I'm no appliance repairma! Nevertheless, this was easy! I assume I saved at least $100. The dryer works perfectly and more importantly, it's quiet again!
The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" ! Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out. Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!! The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off. remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that. There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models). Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!! Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off. Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws. Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again. What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand. Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it. Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off! Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in. Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance. Good Luck with your repairs.... Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going. I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit. Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!
I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken. As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement. At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE
Open top by removing 4 phillips head screws above opened door, pop top up. Remove rear access panel, remove belt from drive & tension pully. Loosen top front screws, remove front panel to gain access to remove drum. After drum removed, I realized why rear bearing went bad- two front guides were worn causing rear bearing to angle and wear out. Replaced front pads, buttoned her up and now quite as new. Also replaced drive belt while in there.
First I shut off the gas and unhooked the gas line. Then opened the door and removed the screws that hold the top down in the front. I then tipped the top back so I could get to the top of the drum. I removed the screws ( 4 ) inside the door opening and slid the felt seal back. Next I put the belt in the drum and feed part out the crack between the drum and the dryer frame, being careful not to cut the belt. I woorked the belt around the crack and pulled it toward the drum. When I got the belt through it was all the way around the drum and I just put the belt over the motor pully and pulled the tensioner back and wrapped the belt over it. Put all the screws back in and the back on and fired it up. Works as good as it ever did.
Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.
Remove the bottom cover of dryer to look at the motor, see belt hanging remove broken belt. Remove screws from the top and front, slide belt over drum put small piece of tape to hole belt in place replace screws go back to the rear pull belt over the motor pulley close back panel
My daughter, who has the dryer in Florida, made the repair herself. She removed the broken handle that had been temporarily taped in place. Cleaned off tape residue with Goo-Gone. Then took the new handle and snapped it into place. Worked just like it was supposed to.
