DDB1501AWB Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.

By reading online about some similar problems, I discovered that the accumulator did, in fact, have some holes worn through the screen and was leaking sediment back into the rinse water. After waiting for 2-3 months because the apart was on back-order at the factory, it took me less that 1 hour to remember how the unit went together (reviewed the parts diagram online) and connect everything up. On the first rinse, the dishes were really clean - well worth the wait. Doing dished by hand reminded me of the old days....

Simply unscrewed the door and plugged in the new parts. Very quick, very easy, saved us hundreds on a new dishwasher.

The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.

I remove the inner door panel, disconnected two quick release connectors, unscrewed the old part from the inner panel and installed the new one.

The new part arrived quickly and was the perfect match.

The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.

First, I removed the screw, then I took off the old wash arm, then I replaced the wash arm, and replaced the screw. Nothing could be easier!

I removed the washer from under cabinet.Turn unit on its side,removed hose connection,removed mounting screws,disconnect wire plug and removed drain pump.
I put a small amount of sealant on pump where it contacts the tub and reversed the process. Parts received in record time and in great shape.

Easy to repair and saved us replacing a dishwasher that was pretty new as it was. The dishes weren't getting clean, checked it out and found out the chopper was broken. Works great now with clean dishes.

I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.

My married daughter actually did the repair. I removed the plastic assemblies that held the upper cage and upper spray assembly. She unscrewed the screws that held the filter/impeller assembly in place and replaced the old one with the new one. I finished the job by cleaning the interior of the washer and putting everything back together. The dishes are sparkling clean again!

Maytag should be ashamed to put such poor plastic material in an otherwise good design. The seals that join the rotary sprayers to the rear wall had hardened and crumbled away. When I discovered that water pressure had been lost at the spray arms, it was a simple fix. Snap off the failed parts, pay Partselect $37 because Maytag wanted to save a dime and snap in the new parts. (Parts that will fail again in another 3 years.)

I removed screws in trim, kick panel and counter top. Turned off breaker at electric box, Dishwasher slid out easily. diconnected water line; so i could slide entire unit out of cabinet. Laid unit on side and cleaned up the water that leaked out.
Removed the pump with nutdriver, replaced pump and reconnected electric, drain hose and screws.
Replaced unit into cabinet, connected water and turned on electric. no leaks, ran machine in rinse cycle, at time for pump I could hear and feel it was running, but no water. Evidently my original problem was the "air gap" device. I repaced it $4 at Home Depot and it works like a champ.
In hind site, the air gap probably ruined the old pump, so you might want to consider changing it out whenever you change the pump.

with dishwasher running I would open the door and notice the lower spray arm was not turning. I removed all parts in the tub and clean off all the accumulated gunk (likely combination of food and soap scum - like a white paste) . The accumulator screens where more than 50% clogged with no way to clean the inside. I replaced the accumulator part and the lower spray arm because 2 holes had gunk in them that would not come out. dishes are now getting clean and I am switching to liquid - no more powder as I suspect it caused the build up over time.