DCXR463GA1WW Dryer - Instructions

It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.

I removed the two screws at the front above the drum opening (with the dryer door open). The top panel then lifts off. I removed the screw at each side that holds the front panel to the side panels, tilted the front panel forward, which disengages the front of the drum from the front drum glide bearing. I then lifted the front panel slightly, unhooking the bottom of the panel from the dryer base, and swung the front panel aside. I removed the existing top drum bearing guide, which was disintegrated, and snapped in the new bearing guide, with the nylon slide strips installed in the bearing guide. Next pulled out the old felt strip, and pressed the new one in place. I then put the bottom of the front panel back into the bottom of the dryer front, and while lifting the drum to asure it fit over the bearing guide, pushed the front panel back to a vertical position to mate with the side panels. I then replaced the side panel screws, replaced the top, and replaced the front top panel screws.

Basically, I followed the same steps a prior person posted.
1.Removed the two screws inside the door, on the top part of the opening.
2.Lifted up and removed the top.
3.Removed two screws holding the front panel in place.
4.Held up the drum while removing the front panel. I carefully turned the panel so I could get at the drum bearing without pulling the wires connecting it to the front panel. The wires are not very long, so I had to be careful not to pull on them.
5.Carefully pried off the old drum bearing, using just my hands. It was fairly tight, and popped out just as I started to worry if I was putting too much pressure on it.
6.Checked to see how the old felt was installed, then I pulled out the old felt.
7.Inserted the new felt, being careful to insert one end into a slot the same way the original was installed.
8.Inserted the new slides into the new drum bearing. The gray slides went in at the eleven and one o'clock positions, the white slides went in at ten and two o'clock.
9.Removed a surplus plastic piece from the new drum bearing (where the light comes through).
10.Inserted the new drum bearing, putting the bottom tabs in first, then pivoting it into place. I squeezed it into place to make sure it was tight.
11.Lifted up the drum and put the front panel back on.
12.Screwed the front panel back on, using the two screws.
13.Carefully put the top back on.
14.Screwed in the two screws inside the front door to fasten down the top.
That was it! I started up the dryer and it worked fine. No more squeaking.
About the only thing odd about the repair is why PartSelect sells each slide separately (i.e., I had to order 2 white slides and 2 gray slides). I can't imagine replacing just one, so why not package them in pairs, or maybe even all four in one package.
At any rate, the repair was easy, and a lot cheaper than having someone come out to fix it.

Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.

I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.

I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.

My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.

My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.

I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com

Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease

PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

We live in a Condominium, space is tight especially in the Utility room where the washer/dryer are located. Turned dryer breaker off at the electical panel.
Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer vent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.
Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!
Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect.

There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

(1) open dryer door (2) remove screws holding door on and put door aside. Probably doesn't have to be done but I think its easier and safer so you don't accidently bend the hinges. (3) remove 2 screws holding top onto front. of dryer located in recess that door sits in (3) pull up on top and remove (from slots by the control panel) (4) remove final 2 screws holding front onto frame of dryer. You can disconnect the connectors from the front panel back to the dryer to make the job easier or work with it without disconnecting. I'd take your time and clean any lint dust, etc. (5) the Drum Bearing removes fairly easy as it is just snapped into 2 slots. insert slids into slots.... make sure you order all 4. Mine were all beat!. (6) replace with new Drum Bearing. (7) I did the lower felt seal as well. Pay attention to how you took the old one off and replace the same way. Remember it stretches to fit into the slots. Put all back together. Remember to front panel has to sit correctly into bottom slots before you screw the top screws back in. All in all.... a simple project, and no more noise!!!!! Great to have websites like this. Easy ordering, quick shipping, great diagrams.

Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.

Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Dear PartSelect.com,

My repair went off without a hitch.

2 screws removed to remove top.
4 screws removed from inside to remove front panel w/ door.
4 screws removed from top of control panel, loosed and popped top right off.
Flathead screwdriver to pop off old plastic panel.
Removed old wire chase (plastic, approx 3” long).
Removed built-up lint, wiped down area for new duct.
Snapped new duct on.
Dryer works like new!!
Took about 35 minutes, most of time spent cleaning up inside of dryer from lint due to broken duct.

One problem was that salesperson sold me on a new felt strip to go with new duct. That felt comes already installed on the new duct so I did not need it. Cost me a few extra dollars I did not need to spend.

Other than that, easy ordering, fast shipment, and parts are as close to original as possible.

Thanks for all your help!

First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!

Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

First I found and watched three videos on how to open the dryer and replace the igniter.
Then I opened the dryer, but I did not remove the belt as suggested in the video, and then I removed the ignitor and flame detecter as the videos had shown.
I got on-line and ordered the new parts from PartsSelect in the afternoon and had them in my hands the next morning by 9:30 am.
I installed the new parts and everything worked fine again. You must be very careful with the igniter to not touch it with hands or anything else. I practiced puting in the old parts first.