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Models > DBXR453EV0WW > Instructions

DBXR453EV0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DBXR453EV0WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DBXR453EV0WW
31-45 of 601
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dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Mike from Simpsonville, SC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 37 of 64 people found this instruction helpful
The heating element was broken.

The dryer was making noise.

  • Customer: Joe from Eureka, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 28 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws that hold the front panel to the top panel. I removed two more screws that hold the front panel to the side panels. I separated the front panel from the side panels and removed the drum.

I could see on the front panel the drum slides were badly worn. One was gone.

The new parts installed easily using no tools at all. Everything snaps in place. The new foam gaskets press and stick to seal the duct work. The felt strip pressed into place.

I replace all the panels in reverse order and plug it in. It operates fine, but the motor is making the noise. I will look into replacing the motor next.

main motor bearings frozen

  • Customer: John from Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 36 of 67 people found this instruction helpful
Having recently replaced the heating elements and main bearing on the dryer I knew how to take the thing apart, getting to the motor was easy. However, the fan side of the shaft was longer than the original so I had to bend out the metal front panel where the fan is located so it would spin without grinding against the front of the dryer. That done, the rest was easy to finish, mounting bolts on the motor tightened, one last test before putting it back together and all was well. The dryer now works better than it has for a long time.

Dryer squeaked when running

  • Customer: Mark from Garrett, IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.

Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.

Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.

Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.

I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.

Loud squeaking. Speaking in demon tongues.

  • Customer: nathan from los angeles, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the front of the dyer off, snapped old bearing off, snapped new drum bearing in, affixed 2 new slides and 2 new other widgets (5 pieces total). Vacuumed/cleaned out various bits and pieces before i closed her up.

No squeaking.

Called a priest, but he died. Now i just do whatever the demon says, but i do it with quietly dried clothes.

Deflector was covered in burnt something.

  • Customer: Richard from San Antonio, FL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 23 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found the 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally.
Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.

Switch knob and shaft broke off from using pliers.

  • Customer: robert from ossineke, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dryer. Removed screws from top of operating panel. Removed wires from switch. Turned switch 1/4 turn to left and removed. Replaced switch. Turned 1/4 to the right. Re-attached wires. Replaced operating panel and screws. Replaced knob. Plugged in dryer. DONE!!!!!!
Easiest repair ever! Thank you.

The dryer began squeeking very loudly progressively getting worse

  • Customer: Michael from Sioux City, IA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
A very easy fix. Opening the front door to the dryer locate two chrome phillips head screws in the upper part of the door opening which hold on the top of the dryer. (I think in the older dryers the top simply was held on with keepers and you could simply pry it off. Not the case here)Lifting up on the front of the top it comes away from the back control panel. I would recommed that the control panel be removed as it is necessary to remove it to put the dryer top back on due to three clips that wont allow you to put the top back down with the control panel in place. It takes a star wrence to remove it. Once the top is off ther are two phillips screws holding the front of the dryer on (one on each side) remove them and the whole fron lifts up and off. The drum rides on a plastic schroud attached to the dryer inside front. Mine was so worn it required the purchase of the entire assembly which comes in two parts. The upper part had worn away so badly the drum was riding on the metal causing the noise. I ordered both the upper and lower assembly and both just simply snap off and the new ones snap right back on. No tools. I was a bit dissapointed as I assumed that the felt which is located in the lower assembly would come with the new part however it did not nor did some plastic tabs which the drum rides on in the upper assembly comes with the replacement part. It takes four of those tabs so order appropriately. Went back together easily and the whole job was done in about 40 minutes.

dryer was cutting off completely.

  • Customer: Stephen from Mechanicsville, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.

Drum Bearing slides were worn and broken, dryer made high-pitched noise.

  • Customer: Gary from Glenmoore, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First, let me say that my repairman said the bearing and slides would cost between $150-200, and the total repair would be pushing $400, so we should just get a new dryer. Well, the total cost for the parts was less than $50.

The installation was easy.
1. Remove the two bottom screws of the door hinges, loosen the two top screws, and remove the door.
2. Unscrew the two screws, under the upper lip of the door opening, that secure the front panel to the top panel.
3. Pull the front of the top panel up, and then pull the panel off.
4. Remove the bulb from the front panel.
5. Unscrew the two screws, from inside the dryer, that secure the front panel to the frame.
6. Pull the front panel away from the drum and frame. Had to lift the drum slightly to do this. The electrical connection wire was still attached to the front panel.
7. Slide off the old drum bearing from the inside of the front panel.
8. Insert 4 new slides onto the new bearing.
9. Slide the new bearing onto the rim of the opening in the front panel.
10. Reset the front panel back into the slots at the bottom front of the frame, with the bearing fitting into the drum. Again, had to lift the drum slightly to do this, and make sure the wire was not caught between the front panel and frame.
11. Re-secured the front panel to the frame with the two screws.
12. Replaced the bulb in the front panel.
13. Replaced the top, and re-secured it with the two screws.
13. Put the door back on.
Quiet dryer once again! And saved the $800, including installation, a new gas dryer would have cost us!

replacement of holed lint screen

  • Customer: Mark from Clarksville, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
straightforward swap, just form the top rail and click it in

only orderd two sliders needed four

  • Customer: William from Leesburg, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
easy no problem

Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months

  • Customer: Richard from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

loud screeching

  • Customer: Roger from Salyersville, KY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
5 minutes! loosened 4 screws pulled front off replaced bearing, felt, and slides. put everything back together, tightened screws. Worked like a NEW ONE!!!!

Wouldn't start

  • Customer: Pauline from South Portland, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 50 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.
All Instructions for the DBXR453EV0WW
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