DBB3300GA1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

New handle popped on easily. After 2 weeks the replacement handle just broke.

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer

pushed replacement knob on shaft of dryer. machine works better than new. took less than 24 hours from time of order to time of delivery to my house.

I used these two videos to help me clean the inside of the machine, then change the drive belt.

I'm retired on a fixed income and the last thing i needed to do was buy a new dryer. I got on the internet and googled GE Profile dryer and opened Part Select. The trouble code listing with the probable part replacement was very accurate. I was also able to view a video to show me exactly how to make the repair. I ordered the necessary parts and was amazed at the UPS delivery (next day). The cost of the parts was reasonable, fit perfectly, and now my dryer is running like new. The wife is happy, and when she's happy everyone is happy.

Researching on the web I thought the trouble might be lint buildup or trouble w/ one of the parts involved in spinning the drum. However I cleaned out all the lint and replaced the belt and idler pulley and this didn't improve the smell (drum bearing was fine). I then concluded the trouble was the motor. Running the motor w/o the drum in place confirmed this was where the noise/smell was coming from. Replacing the motor was fiddly--I had to remove the clip holding the motor (pried the top w/ a screwdriver), wires (made a diagram so as to put back in same order, they were hard to get off--a pliers did the job), clamps holding the motor on the duct, the motor mount, the duct, the fan. Putting all this back together took a while (not hard just fiddly). Tested the motor w/out the drum in place and it sounded fine. Put the drum and back/front/top panels back and the dryer runs fine now. All parts came quickly and exactly matched the parts in my 1993 Hotpoint dryer. As others have said the pulley kit is not needed--these are included w/ the motor. BTW I am a 53-year-old lady. Thanks to all who took the time to write up their experiences--big help!!

We had to remove the top of the dryer in order to open the front panel. The bearing was located on the front panel and was relatively easy to replace. No more squeaking!

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.

I took the Dryer apart easily just as the instruction video showed. I quickly noticed that I needed what was described as Gray or Green slides as well as the white slides recommended. I had to find them locally and it took an hour to retrieve them from a local repair shop. The Rear Drum Bearing was extremely hard to remove from inside the Drum. The screws had frozen in place. Finally broke them loose with Vise Grips from the back side. All the new parts went in very easy. Highly recommend getting Green Slides and also since it's apart put a new belt on, which I did not do.

My dryer was making a grinding noise so I tore it apart using a screw driver, a torks bit and a pair of pliers. It took about 15min to get it appart. I found the idler pully was worn out and broke in 2 pieces. I ordered the new part along with a new belt, since I had it appart, and they arrived the next day. It took about a half hour to put the new parts in and put the dryer back together. Works great now. While I had it apart I cleaned the elements and greased the bearing.

removed 4 scewws deom case snapped out switch placed the new one attached two wires re attached with the 4 screws