DAQG7077KW0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

Blower wheel came apart from molded-in nut, was loose, was rubbing on housing wall, and was likelynot moving to much air. I read some troubled stories about separating the wheel nut from the motor shaft so bought a new motor and blower housing and install wall pretty easy. There are videos on the teardown process and does that long and not alot of parts to keep track of either. I have already done the felt drum liner and rear drum ball and belt so if it's older than 15 years and your going to take the dryer apart, replace all these parts and you will about have new dryer at half the cost of new.

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

Unplug from electric outlet. Use putty knife to press on two brackets holding the top cover. Raise top cover. Unscrew two screws holding the front panel. Raise front panel up and move to the right (careful with the wires). Disconnect wires from coils. Unscrew two screws holding a small bracket holding the coils. Replace coils and reassemble everything. (HINT: make sure you drum is empty. Mine contained dump clothes, and it turned out front panel actually provides support to the drum, so mine was hanging there with some weight in it - probably not good).

Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again

I unplugged the dryer and pryed open the top by inserting a screw driver in the space 1inch from the top on the side. After i opened it and lifed it up, I removed the one screw on both sides found in the inner part towards the front top. I then removed the front panel. The coils are toward the bottom left side. They are held in by a bracket which is held in by 2 screws. I removed the outer screw and loosened the inner screw. ( you can remove both screws but it was not necessary).I then swumg the bracket around and was able to lift out the coils. I removed the connectors and relaced the coils. Once done I re-assembled the dryer. The problem was solved.

Dryer was working, only burner was working occasionally only. So, in result the drying time was very long, and clothes were cold and still not satisfactionally dry; occasionally only it was hot. It became obvious to me that gas burner only occasionally is working. On the Internet I found some instructables, mostly on YouTube, but also on this site (the Burner diagram): thus I have learned that the culprit must be the two tiny ignition coils: they worked only sometimes, so it was only a jeopardy when checking them using a continuation meter (voltmeter with continuation feature). For the access to the burner combo I used a small checking door right below the large door, in front wall of the dryer. There are only two small screws which hold a small piece of metal which cover these tiny coils. However, I had to disconnect the burner from gas pipe to get better access to those screws. (Of course, I also disconnected the dryer from power and I had to disconnect those wire connections on the burner combo to get access to the burner). It works perfectly after this repair.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

Unplug dryer.
Put up the top of the dryer at the front, remove 2 screws holding the front of the dryer to the sides and remove front of dryer. Locate ignition coil on lower left. Remove 2 screws and bracket over the two ignition coils. Replace coils and reassemble in reverse.
Everybody's happy.

Cover of the dryer pops off and hinges back. Use a flat screw driver to pop the clips on the front sides. Two phillips head screws hold the front panel on. Remove them then lift the panel off the clips at the bottom. Two phillips head hold the Ignition Coil bracket in place. Take note of the direction of the cable connection, it's not marked. Dryer would ignite intermittently. Clothes were not dry after 1 hour.

my experience was just like the other responses. top comes off, 2 screws and the front comes off and the screws to the solenoids come off. Replaced the solenoids and put everything back together.

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.