CYG2000AWA Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.

Watched a you tube video on replacing a dryer belt for a whirlpool dryer. Perfect instructions. Dryer is working great.Thank you

I opened the 5x5" door in the front of the dryer. Unscrewed the clamp holding the two coils down replaced/reconnected the coils and screwed the clamp back down

video on your website made it super easy

Removed the two screws fromt he lint track on the top of the dryer. Inserted putty knife between the top of the fromt panel and the dryer top and pushed in to release the two catches for the front panel. I rested the top panel against the wall to get it out of the way of the front panel . Next I removed the two nuts at the top of the front panel . Removed the electrical safety connector for the door using a very small screwdriver to release the catch. Pull up on the front panel to detach it from the bottom catches. I rested the drum on a couple of 2x4s to support it while the front panel was off. Locate the housing for the coils which is on the front of the dryer left side. Remove the cover fromt he coil housing by using a stubby phillips screwdriver and remove the top two screws. Remove the wiring connectors from each of the coils. Replace the coils being careful to align the coils with the "keys" in the housing cover. Reverse the process to complete the job taking care to ensure the felt around the drum does not bind.

This is a straightforward repair that you can do in an hour or less. Open the lint trap and remove the two screws. Use a screwdriver to pop up the top of the dryer. Remove two screws that attach the front panel. Now you can lift out the drum and then lift off the front panel. Clean out all the lint. Make sure the motor pulley turns smoothly. Tilt back the dryer diagonally to make the rest go easier. Loop the new belt around the drum (rubber side down) and reinstall the drum against the back wall of the dryer. Make sure the cloth liner fits perfectly around the ridge, with no folds so the drum rotates easily. Make sure the drum fits smoothly against the two rubber positioning wheels on the back wall. Position the new belt around the center of the drum. On the dryer floor, stand up the tensioner bracket. Tricky part -- thread the belt so it runs through the bracket and loops around the drive pulley on the motor, rubber side against the pulley. The belt should be tight, held by the tensioner. Reinstall the front panel so the opening aligns with the drum opening. Drop the top down, snap into place.and reattach the screws in the lint trap. Done!

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.

Unplug electric, open top, take off front, with a small Phillips screw driver remove two screws securing the coils, remove one coil at a time, unplug and replace with new coil, secure with metal bracket and reinstall front and top and your done.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.

The online vidio was very helpfull

Unplugged the power cord. Removed two screws on lint vent , used putty knife to release clips to raise top at front of unit. Disconnected the plug from front door switch. Laid dryer on its back. Removed two screws to remove front including the door. Vacuumed lint from inside unit. Installed belt temporarily using two pieces of masking tape to hold it in place while properly routing the belt. Gave the tub a full turn to insure alignment.. Reinstalled the front of unit with the two screws. Righted the unit and snapped down the top. Replaced the two lint vent screws. Plugged it back in and done! Piece of cake!

I went onto the Part Select website, they have a problem solving section that told me the most likely part to replace first and a description of the machine and the location of the part. I purchased the part, I unplugged the electric cord first. I then opened up the front of the machine with a philips screw driver, changed the part with the philips scew driver, I put back the front of the machine and the machine worked. It doesn't get any better then that!

replaced the two coils, which took about 10 minutes

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.