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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
I TURNED THE POWER OFF !!! removed the two screws holding the element in place, disconnected the two power wires, installed the new element. Done, in less than five minutes.
The instructions reviewed in the Maytag Parts web site provided very good information that told me how to remove and replace the heating element. It took me about 15 minutes to complete the replacement. The oven then began to function properly.
I am impressed with the rate I was sent the replacement. I received the replacement within 24 hours after I submitted the request for the product.
Unscrewed old element from back of oven, disconnected and reinserted new element and screwed back into place. Voila! So glad to have saved the cost of a repairman. Where I live this would have been a $200 repair(part and service call) easily. This repair took no time at all. Very please as to how fast Parts service got the part to me. I use my oven a lot, so I was lost without it.
This was too simple, turned off the power to the oven, undid the two screws, unplugged two wires, plugged wires into the new element, fastened the new screws and turned the power back on. Turned on the oven, what do you know, it works again!
The element did not come with instructions and none were needed.
I removed the front panels and took out the clock. Clock removal was done two or three wires at a time. I hooked up the old wires to the new clock as I went. There were about 7 wires. This ensured a proper hook up. Reinstalled the front panels, and back to baking dinner.
Removed two screws. Gently pulled old element away from back of oven, exposing two wires. Disconnected the element from wires by pulling the ends apart with hands. Reconnected the wires with new element. LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES! Saved about a hundred bucks!. (Demo on You Tube.)
The oven heating element burned out and would no longer heat.
It was very simple. First thing I did was to go online to youtube and type in the kind of repair I intended to do. There were several short videos showing you how to do the replacement.It was easy and took about 30 to 45 minutes. First thing is shut off the power to the oven. ( Very important). You then need to take out two screws that hold the element in place. At this point, just pull the element toward the front of the oven. You will see some insulation at the hole where the wires come out. Slowly work the element forward until you see the fasteners on the wires ( two wires).Disconnect the fasteners and throw the old element out and put the new one in the oven.Connect the element, push everything back into the hole and screw the element to the back wall. You're done ! I had two wall ovens to fix.
I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted
Oven would not hold temperature, not turn on, and would shut off during use.
Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.
Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis