CTX18LYZNRWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

Unplugged refrigerator.Checked that new gasket was the right size for freezer.Opened freezer door and lifted inside edge to access screw's. Loosened top screw's and screw's half way down each side and pulled gasket out. Installed new gasket into slot where old gasket was and tightened screw's across top and the first couple down side's.Lifted edge of old gasket and loosened screw's holding remainder of old gasket in place and finished removing old gasket.Finished putting new gasket in slot and tightened remaining screw's. The reason for only doing gasket half at a time is to keep the door square and not getting out of shape. If new gasket is warped when removed from shiping box run under hot water or soak in hot water until more flexible.

took off back cover 6 screws unpluged wire conecter( hardest part to do )took 2 screws out of mounting bracket pulled fan blade off replaced motor and gromets reverse to reasmble

Pulled out the control sensor on the ceiling of the fridge. (2 screws) Took a picture with phone on how everything was installed. Unplugged all wires and pulled out Control Temp sensor. Installed new one and attached all wires. Installed back in fridge and plugged it back in. Everything works like new.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

Simple install. .

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Easy Peasey. Had to make one adjustment 24 hours later. Set the fan too far into the shroud. After the adjustment it works great!!!

All repairs made in freezer compartment.

MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BEFORE WORKING ON EQUIPMENT

Removed ice tray.
Removed bottom cover, 2 screws.
Removed center cover, 2 screws.
Removed backside cover, 4 screws.
Removed fan assembly from back wall, 2 screws.
Disconnected wires from defective motor, old fan blade was cracked spinning freely on shaft.

Reversed the order for re-assembly.
Plugged in refrigerator, now working great.

Make sure you buy the rubber grommets that supports the motor, I did not and did not notice the old ones were worn out. A vibration is coming from the new motor after repair because I used the old grommets. These should be included with the new motor.

Referenced a couple of videos first, held up the new gasket to ensure fit, then carefully pulled the old gasket off by hand. Wiped down the ridges/edges of the door, then installed new gasket first on opposite corners then along all sides. Simply pressed in to the door ridges/bracket. Used a putty knife to ensure the edge of gasket was not folded under itself, and the blunt edge of the handle to ensure it was snugly installed all the way around. Didn’t have to remove the door as I had expected to. Very easy and took maybe 30 mins.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

1. Disconnected 120 VAC power supply from refrigerator. 2. Removed 2 philip screws from horizonal panel containing the thermostat. (Panel is in refrigerator section). 3. Removed plug module from panel which freed the panel which allowed me to remove panel to do repair. 4. Removed wires from thermostat (cold control), and mechanically removed thermostat from panel and installed new cold control (thermostat). Replaced wires on control. 5. Replaced panel and reinstalled 2 philips screws. 6. time to repair about 15 minutes.

First unplugged frig. Took off cover to fan, then bottom & back panels in freezer. Unplugged the fan to the wires & marked them so we would know how they went back. Unscrewed the frame that holds the fan, laid the old one next to the new one so we could tell how it went. Only took a few minutes to do this, then put it back in the same way we took it out. Plugged frig. back in & it took off. Very happy with this. Runs like a new one.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance