CTT18EAYBRWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

When the cover came to my apartment, I crossed my fingers that the piece would fit . Well, within 5 minutes the old cover was out and the new cover in. And it looks better than new! Finally, I don't have to hold my vegetable drawers up with a D battery!

First I removed the rear cover, located at the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I cleaned out the dirt & dust on and around the compressor. The relay has a cover, that is secured with a spring loaded clip. To release the clip, push in with your fingers, while disengaging the end clip with a screwdriver. Once one side is off the other lifts off. Remove cove exposing the relay. There is one wire terminated, with a spade clip, remove it. With a strait blade screwdriver, pry the relay off the 2 post it slides on to. (Don't be surprised if it breaks into pieces, as they are sometimes brittle. ) Slide the new relay onto the 2 posts, replace the wire onto the right terminal, and replace the relay cover & clip. Replace the rear cover. Plug in and test.

Unplugged refrigerator.Checked that new gasket was the right size for freezer.Opened freezer door and lifted inside edge to access screw's. Loosened top screw's and screw's half way down each side and pulled gasket out. Installed new gasket into slot where old gasket was and tightened screw's across top and the first couple down side's.Lifted edge of old gasket and loosened screw's holding remainder of old gasket in place and finished removing old gasket.Finished putting new gasket in slot and tightened remaining screw's. The reason for only doing gasket half at a time is to keep the door square and not getting out of shape. If new gasket is warped when removed from shiping box run under hot water or soak in hot water until more flexible.

Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.

No tools required! The replacement pan cover was shipped and arrived within 3 days. I pulled out the drawers, then the cover. Slipped the new one in, slipped in the drawers and it was finished.

Pulled out the control sensor on the ceiling of the fridge. (2 screws) Took a picture with phone on how everything was installed. Unplugged all wires and pulled out Control Temp sensor. Installed new one and attached all wires. Installed back in fridge and plugged it back in. Everything works like new.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

Simple install. .

Condensor Fan not turning. I thought it would be an easy fix. I thought I could pull off the shroud and fan assy - no joy. Too many copper pipes and lots of tubing in the way. It took 90 minutes to remove and 30 minutes to install. The BIG hint here is to loosen the shoud, pull it back as far as you can and then remove the nut that holds the fan blade in place. THEN you can remove the motor. Get the new motor back into the shroud, get the blade back on and then tighten the shroud back up.

Removed 2 vegetable drawers and phone book and cd case supporting the vegetable drawers. Removed food items sitting on top. Lifted out cracked pan cover and put in place the new one. Reinserted all items originally removed except for phone book and cd case. It was a perfect fit and probably the easiest repair job I have ever done. I do not know why I waited 2 years to find the part.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

All repairs made in freezer compartment.

MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BEFORE WORKING ON EQUIPMENT

Removed ice tray.
Removed bottom cover, 2 screws.
Removed center cover, 2 screws.
Removed backside cover, 4 screws.
Removed fan assembly from back wall, 2 screws.
Disconnected wires from defective motor, old fan blade was cracked spinning freely on shaft.

Reversed the order for re-assembly.
Plugged in refrigerator, now working great.

Make sure you buy the rubber grommets that supports the motor, I did not and did not notice the old ones were worn out. A vibration is coming from the new motor after repair because I used the old grommets. These should be included with the new motor.

Referenced a couple of videos first, held up the new gasket to ensure fit, then carefully pulled the old gasket off by hand. Wiped down the ridges/edges of the door, then installed new gasket first on opposite corners then along all sides. Simply pressed in to the door ridges/bracket. Used a putty knife to ensure the edge of gasket was not folded under itself, and the blunt edge of the handle to ensure it was snugly installed all the way around. Didn’t have to remove the door as I had expected to. Very easy and took maybe 30 mins.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.