CTN1911GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

remove back lower panel using nutdriver. Locate and remove Relay and Overload parts from side of Compressor which were located inside a small white box shaped cover unti held on by a spring clip. Attach new Relay and overload to 3 pin terminals on side of compressor. Attach 1 white & 1 orange/white wire to relay terminals. Attach supplied white jumper wire to Overload and other end to Blue wire. Instal new cover supplied with kit replacing old box type cover.

The fridge wasnt cooling and freezer was barely operating. We had the same problem in 2005 and the fan that blows cold air into the freezer and fridge was replaced for $200 BY Maytag. We looked up the part and found two choices with different connectors but narrowed it down by the pictures and series #. The part was ordered Sunday and arrived Tuesday for ~80$. To intsall you simply remove food and shelves then 4 nuts that hold back pnael in place. Then release one wiring harness connector to allow the panel to pivot out. After that you can easily release the clips holing the fan cover and then undo two screws to drop assembly out. Two more screw release fan body (you can reuse the fan blade) and one more for the earthstrap. After that follow reverse instructions to reassemble and after ~45 mins the unit was as good a new. Having said that there seems to be a basic design flaw in this maytag unit if fans only last 3-4 years. Still much cheaper than buying a new fridge.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove face plate located in the upper back of the refrigerator compartment. Remove face place bracket on the right using nut driver. Removing these screws also frees the metal case enclosing the Defrost Timer. Pull the case away from the back of the refrigerator exposing the Defrost timer. Remove the electrical plug from the Defrost Timer. Then remove the Defrost Timer from the case by removing the two screws securing it. Reverse the procedure to install the new Defrost Timer.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Luckily, this Maytag refrigerator is only used for sodas and beer and so I had time to tinker with it. By the way, I am a 64 yr old retired woman. First of all, I took the back off and vacuumed everything. Then I emptied the freezer, removed the ice-maker, and removed the back panel. It was solid ice around the thermostat area and down in the vent between the freezer and refrigerator. A little time and a hair dryer resolved the ice problem. I thought the problem was the thermostat, so I ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect.com for the freezer, and it came a couple days later. I installed that (it just snaps in) and ran it overnight, but no success. After reading many blogs on the internet, I checked the fan motor, which blows the air from the freezer to the refrigerator, to see if it was getting power with a small voltmeter. It was, but was not working. I ordered a new fan motor from PartSelect (I was a little confused by series number, but finally found which one to order), and it arrived a couple days later. Taking out the fan required removing a couple of screws and unclipping the wiring, then pulling the old fan off the old motor and putting it on the new motor, then putting everything back the way it was. As soon as I plugged it back in, the fan started blowing right away, so I knew that I had resolved the problem. I bought a thermometer for checking freezer and refrigerator temps, and they are perfect with the settings for both on "5". So now I consider myself a Maytag repairman, uh, woman.

Cooling coils froze up. Removed back panel in freezer section. After thawing coils, manually advanced defrost timer to check if fan stopped and defrost (heat) strips energized. Fan did stop, but heating strips did not energize to thaw coils. Used electrical meter to determine circuit was open at defrost thermostat. Ordered replacement and installed in about 20 minutes. No issues so far.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

I removed the 32 screws which held the seal and the interior door panel. Then I removed and replaced the gasket from around the door panel and replaced the 32 screws.

First I removed the cardboard cover, which was held in place by 7 screws. Actually first I unplugged the fridge, next using a nut driver I removed the 3 screws holding the supports to the motor. The motor with fan just pulls right out. Next was to disconnect the wire harness or plug, which required squeezing together the plastic plug and moving it side to side while gently pulling.
With motor in hand using a pair of pliers remove the poor excuse for a nut of the fan motor shaft holding on the fan. Slide the fan off the shaft -note direction of blades!!!! Using a nut driver remove 2 srews holding on the plastic motor support . This slides right off the back. To assemble follow the reverse . Just check to see that the fan spins freely before plugging back in your fridge.

This frig didn't have an ice maker but in its place was a shelf. Removed two philips screws and shelf unhooked and was removed. Removed four screws from back plate in freezer. Pulled plate out and tilted down to remove one wiring clip for fan and two spade clips for light fixture. Pulled back plate out and removed two bolts holding fan to back plate. Removed fan blade and two more bolts holding motor in bracket. My frig was repaired once before by a repair man and he cut the clip off of the wiring harness. Cut clip off of the new fan motor and wired the fan to the frig wiring using blue fan wire to blue frig wire and white fan wire to orange frig wire. Reassembled in reverse order being sure to wait until fan motor was back in the back plate before placing fan blade back on motor shaft. I did some research on the internet and was told that the fan should stick half way out of the backing plate. If you push the fan all the way on until it hits the little ridge inside of the hole that should be it. I also read that the little Panasonic fan that comes in this frig is a piece of junk and you will probably have to replace it again in a few years but I didn't read that part until after I ordered the part. I was told you can order a Johnstone motor Part # S58-099 that would be more dependable but you have to reverse the fan rotation to get it to work. I tried to order this panasonic fan from local appliance store but they wanted $100.00 and they would have to order it. I got it here for less and it took the same amount of time. Parts were exact match of what was in there. I was happy from the service I got from this company.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Removed the one and only screw inserted vertically up to hold the control console to the top of the fresh food compartment. Disconnected the electrical connectors ( two ) and laid console on work bench. Studied the temperature control installation first, then removed wire connections. Installed the new control same as old one, and reinstalled the console in the fresh food compartment of the refrigerator. Service from Part Select was excellent ! Great diagrams, pictures, etc. Great help to locating part ! Ordered part, and bam, here it was in few days ! Great customer support ! Five stars !

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

Diagnosis: Defrost timer tested fine for continuity. Removed relay/capacitor unit from compressor (carefully). Tested compressor connections for continuity (OK). I tested the connection paths from timer to compressor and they were fine. At this point, I figured it could only be two things: [1]bad compressor or [2] bad relay/capacitor. I put the odds on the relay and bet the $70 on the part. Before installation, I marked the timer position with a sharpie. It's located on the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment. After the part installation, the compressor kicked in, purring quietly. Condenser coils warm, Evaporator coils cold. After a few hours I had ice in the freezer. I checked the timer markings with a compact mirror. It had advanced over a half turn, assuring that the timer motor functions. . Next, I went to the grocery store.