CTB2121ARW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

This was a very easy fix. I took the old ice maker out, including the electrical harness. Switched the harness and stop bar to the new ice maker on my bench, then installed the new assembly. Ice initially had some hollow cubes. I checked the ice maker for level. But it was fine. Thought it might be moving too fast. But it seems to have cleared up. Perhaps it took some time to completely cool down.

The video of the installation was the best help I have ever had. Rather that vague written instructions that are usually so poorly written they are of no help, the video showed exactly how to do it. I wish everyone provided videos like this!

Repair done according to video and instructions. What you need to know is myself and my husband are adverse to all kinds of "simple" repairs because they never go well and we are not handyman kind of persons. This, I must say, was a delightful change in our typical experience of attempting to make our own repairs.
Thanks
Sandy

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

I removed the ice catcher from the excellent packaging, rinsed it, and placed it on the counter next to the fridge. I opened the door the the freezer and placed the ice catcher under the icemaker. I lowered the arm on the icemaker and closed the door to the freezer. Then I opened the door to fridge, took out a Guinness, popped the top, and sat down to savor my success.

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

Killed the power to the fridge. Then, used a small, thin screwdriver to depress the clip on the bottom of the switch and wriggled the old switch out. The two wires easily came off the contacts with pliers. Connected the wires to the new switch and snapped it into the hole--clip facing down and contacts facing up. Turned the power back on and checked the switch. Worked perfectly! Easy job.

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

Adding water to Ice Maker, caused ice to be made. I assumed the Single Outlet Water Valve to be problem (despite %4 probability). I suppose problem could have been in the ice maker itself and it's interface to the Single Outlet Water Valve but fortunately the Single Outlet Water Valve solved the problem. The Parts Select replacement part video was very helpful and the replacement was fairly easy. Were the problem in the Ice Maker itself, I don't know that I could have justified the cost of the the repair for a 17 year old refrigerator.

Replacing the icemaker is pretty simple. Three screws, an electrical connector. Hardest part is getting to the icemaker since the freezer is below the refrigerator.

Five minutes with a phillips screw driver and the cube maker was changed. . . In the process, I failed to unplug the unit, and shorted the fill valve in the back. Again, five minutes with a nut driver and it was changed. No need for a PHD or the cost of a service technician for either job.

Model#MBF2255KEW (bottom Freezer) Turn fridge and freezer controls OFF. Move fridge out away from wall to give yourself working space and to clean later. Disconnect electrical plug from wall. Turn off water supply at wall or floor. Put down towel to catch excess water and disconnect water hose at water supply, lay it on towel. Move to the inside of freezer and remove freezer bins by pulling the door all the way out as far as it will go and then lifting by the handle up. locate the two hooks in the back and push forward to clear the bar and move to a safe location. Push the two rails all the way back into the freezer. Un plug wire harness from freezer by squeezing both side of the plug at same time and pull off. Remove the 3- 1/4" nut screws (2 at top and 1 at bottom ) from the ice maker and remove. Take the front cover, Wiring harness and wire bail from old ice maker and place it on the new ice maker. Install new ice maker and connect the wiring harness plug to the freezer connection. Hook up water line hose and tighten. Turn water on and check for leaks. Plug fridge into wall outlet and set refrigerator and freezer controls to 3 until refrigerator is cold and then set as needed. Give the ice maker from 3 to 6 hours to freeze and wait for that magical sound of ice being dumped into the bin. Throw away first batch of ice to make sure there are no impurities. Check for the delivery date of the new ice maker before you start and have coolers and ice for perishables. I removed the old one on the delivery date and cleaned the fridge and freezer inside out. I came to this page to get my repair plan and I hope this will help someone else.

Repair was as shown in the video except my refrigerator had screws instead of the plastic clips as shown in the video. Just had to loosen the two upper ones and remove the one lower one. All other steps were as shown in the video.

Remove bottom screw loosen 2 top screws unplug connector from back of icebox. Lift up and pull forward. Swap front cover full bucket stop bar and wire (plugs in) reinstall 10 minute job

the diagnosis was the most difficult step.. and trusting that the one visible nut was the only thing holding it on.. (there are 2 other clips that you need to use a little force on to detach). remove the ice maker (one nut, 2 clips, detach plug).. then remove the 3 screws holding on the 'face' , pry face off, you will see where the 'contact' has burned/melted/worn away. replace unit. 80% of the time, this is the problem (according to my research)