CSX24DLP Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two.
bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!

removed old parts and installed new. went smooth

Frist, cleaned coils; still no start. Noticed the cooling fan near compressor started then immediately stopped. Removed relay and "guardette" assembly from compressor. Checked for shorts on compressor between relay probes and compressor housing and found no shorts. Also saw heat damage on relay so decided to replace relay, overload (relay/guradette assembly no longer available) and start/run capacitor. The original GE parts were no longer available so I found replacement parts listed by GE. They were: Start Capacitor: WR62X58 replaced by WR62X51, Relay/Guardette assembly WR7X191 replaced by Relay WR07X10011 (2-wire relay) and Overload WR8X170 (1-wire overload). The original Relay/Guardette assembly had 4 wires, 2 to the relay and 2 to the Guardette. The wires to the Guardette are ground wires that also ground the cooling fan. I had to rewire the new Overload to allow the 2 grounds to be attached to the single pole of the new Overload. After replacing all parts, the compressor still would not work...heard loud clicking noise when new parts tried to start the compressor. In the end, compressor was bad so refrigerator, which was 29 years old, was replaced.

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps...
All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.

I removed all items from area of refrigerator. I removed the drawers. I unscrewed the broken slide rail. Upper drawer had left side broken. Lower drawer had right side broken. I simply screwed the new slide rail in. The glass shelf didn't fit, so I took a pair of needle nose pliers and broke off a tiny piece on the slide rail that was preventing the glass from dropping in. (I checked the old one first and could see the same thing had been done) I screwed each rail in and dropped the glass shelf back in. (The lower shelf was broken and I ordered a replacement at the same time as the broken rails. I put the glass into the plastic holder of the old (broken) shelf and slipped it back in. Very easy. I'm a housewife not a repairman. I saved a few dollars on a house call.

It was very simple, took out the slide rails and took a screwdriver and assembled. My wife was very pleased to have these drawers in working order once again.

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

Turn of power to fridge. Removed all shelving in freezer section. Unscrewed back panel from freezer area. Removed old defrost term t-stat from top of evaporator coil assembly. Cut existing two wire leads, spliced in new T stat wires. sealed wire splices from water egress and clipped new t-stat in same position as old one. Reassembled rear panel, installed shelves. Turned power back on.That's it.

Remove three screws insert part; manually checked out drive and waited for ice to buildup and it worked like new.

Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement.
It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also.
To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam.
Replace in reverse order.
Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!

I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.

p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.

Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.