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Light would stay on when door closed
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
pulled old gasket away to reveal the screws, did not completely unscrew, just enough to take the old gasket off. Clean around the edges with a bleach soapy water mixture. Put groove under of gasket under screw bracket, tight part way (starting at the bottom) stretch to fit over top part, and screw in completely.
1. Put all perishable food into ice chest. Empty door shelves. 2. Remove top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. 3. Supporting door, remove top hinge attached by two hex screws. 4. Lift door off bottom hinge. 5. On bottom of door, unscrew the hex screw holding the broken plastic cam. 6. Loosen the second hex screw enough to free the broken cam. 7. Replace the cam and tighten the hex screws making sure the opening of the cam lines up with the hole under the door. 8. Snap off plastic grill at the bottom of the refrigerator. 9. Remove bottom of the two hex screws holding the bottom hinge tot eh refrigerator body. 10. Loosen the second screw enought to rotate the hinge upsidedown. Tighten the screw again. 11. Now the rivet bottom is exposed so as to facilitate drilling it out to remove the broken cam. 12. Loosen the hex screw again and turn it back rightside up. Reinstall the bottom screw and tighten both of them. 13. Using an appropriate size bolt, lockwasher and nut, install other new cam. 14. Reinstall door reversing steps 1 to 4. 15. Don't forget to return the food to the 'fridge, by the way!
The old cam had broken and was on the floor. I ordered one new cam. I should have been told to order at least two, I did not know they worked in pairs. So I had to re-order, I ordersed four, I was able to see that the other (freezer door has cracked cams) door will soon need replacement of the cams. I had trouble installing the new part because the rivit also needed to ba replaced. I did a "Rube Goldgerg" to get the new part to sit properly. I drilled the hole open a little and forced the part into place. All is well. Thank you very much!
I was set to buy a new magnetic seal to hold the door closed, when I looked it up on PartSelect I saw the recommendation that the problem might be the door closing cam.. I check it with a mirror and sure enough the cam had broken and the door sagged about 1/4 inch. I then followed the instruction and removed the top hinge, lifted the door off and replaced the cam. I did need two and the one attached to the lower hinge had to be drilled out and a new screw and nut attached to hold the cam. It was simple to do, I would recommend selling the door closing cam be sold in pairs with a #10 1/2 inch long screw with lock nut.
Please note that I did this repair 2 times before and it was very easy, it took me longer to get the stuff out of the refrigerator door.
But this time the existing upper and lower cams broke, and the lower part of the door was making contact with the screw that holds the lower cam to the lower support bracket damaging the head of the screw.
Now I could not use a screw driver and I had to use a wrench and a vise grip to hold the round screw head (not easy), and then replace the screw and nut.
I had to insert 2 flat washers under the lower support, to separate the door an additional 1/32 from the ref. base to accomodate the fact that the door gasket had lost its regular shape in the lower part of the door (I discover this when I dismounted the door).
Then I removed the damaged cams, replace them with the new ones and now it is working ok.
Both door Cams broken even though I could see only one.
I learned from previous descriptions. Most important is there are two cams so order two. Second is that the door can be blocked from the bottom so the door doesn't have to be unloaded if you are careful. Remove the vent cover. Raise the door as high as possible while closed then block it from dropping down. I used wooden blocks. Remove the lower hinge and bracket on the bottom of the door. Put everythng back and you're back in business. A kit with both cams, spacers, and screws with diagram would have been nice to have.
I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn). So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.
I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.
