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Severe Ice Build Up, But Freezer Temperature Inadequate
I followed the troubleshooting instructions for freezers with ice build-up. First defrost the freezer. This makes a huge mess. The tray for water buildup is very small. I suggest covering the hole so no water gets to the tray and collecting the water as it melts in the freezer. (DO NOT pry the ice off with a knife. I did that when I was 14 and punctured the freon lines.) After the ice was gone inside the freezer, I removed the back panel of the freezer (a pair of 5/16" nuts on the bottom and a pair of #2 phillips screws at the top). The panel will then just pull straight out. Make sure the ice has melted from behind the panel as well before testing any of the components.
First component to check is the defrost timer. Pretty straight forward, using the instructions on the PartSelect home page and a multi-meter (looking for continuity or the lack there of). You need to remove it and check it out of the fridge. In my case the defrost timer worked correctly (bummer since it was much cheaper than the defrost heater kit). Next step was to test the Defrost Heater. I used a common since approach which was not mentioned in the instructions. I manually turned the defrost timer until it clicked. Then I put my hand next to the glass tubes that incased the heater elements. They did not get hot. I then turned the defrost timer until it clicked again. Again, the heater elements did not get hot. Since there are only two setting on the timer, it means the defrost heater was broken. If you can hear the refrigerator/freezer running, then you are not in defrost mode. Turn the thermostat for another click. All noise will stop...and heat should be found at the tubes (behind 6" thin tin covers), if they are functioning.
Removing the defrost heaters and thermostat was simple. There are four #2 screws (2 on each assembly). The thermostat is just clipped on. It is impossible to put the defrost heater assembly in wrong. Put the panel back on and your ready to go. The 30-60 minutes is not repair time but de-ice and repair time. I used a space heater to speed up the de-ice process.
Pulled out the shelves, unscrewed the old rail and removed it. Two screws put the new rail on, and then I put the shelves back in. It was so simple, and inexpensive too. This is a great service you provide. Thanks!!
My veggy drawer wouldn't close or open due to broken rails on left side.
I looked up the brand (Kenmore) and found that there are replacement parts for the drawer rails. I put up with this problem for three years not knowing this could be repaired. I unscrewed the broken left rail and replaced with the new one. I bought a right side rail just in case all the stress of the other side being broken would cause the right side to give up too. So far so good but I will keep the new right rail for a future date. It was so easy to repair and I wasted all those years putting up with the hassel.
Remove contents of door , Remove top hinge cover - phillips screwdriver , remove top hinge screws ( 2 ) - socket wrench , lift door off lower hinge pin , lay door on edge , remove cam retention screw ( 1 ) - socket wrench , remove broken cam , install new cam , apply vasaline to cam and hinge pins , repeat above steps in reverse . Door now self closes .
First we removed the door. Then we had to hammer the old part off including the old rivot. We fould a screw that fit and put this piece on. We held the door in place and screwed the hinge on the main unit.
I don't know exact details. My husband replaced parts while I held the door.
We removed connections for the door on the bottom (propped up on books). We installed the new cam, the old one cracked and broke, and the new shim and the door is now even with the top of the fridge. It was not before, and the seal near the bottom of the fridge was not solid. Now it is. It was very easy.
Got the part in and needed two screws to installed on left side. Service was great on the part as it was delivered in 3 days from the time we ordered. Thanks for the quick service
Removed everything from the refrigerator door. Removed the screw holding the cover over the top hinge. Removed the two (8mm) bolts holding the top hinge to the refrigator. Removed the door. Removed the plastic grill/cover and the two (8mm) bolts from the lower hinge assembly. Installed the new hinge assembly. Replaced the closing cam (included in the hinge assembly kit) on the bottom of the door. Put the door back on the lower hinge. Installed the upper hinge. Adjusted the door and tightened the bolts on the upper hinge, and replaced the hinge cover. Done!
Turned off water to ref , removed bottom kick plate , got a towel and disconnected the water line plastic fitting and un screwed the (2) tube clamps un screwed the coupling and ((carefully )) slid out the tube from the compression ferrels ! ( Be careful and do not break or distort them + remember exactly the order they are removed ! Slid the protector spring shroud from the plastic tube , took ogg the top hinge cover then remover the top hinge . Carefully lifted the door off feering the plastic tube through the bottom hinge with my foot ! Got the door off removed the bottom hinge + put the new on on, then removed the door cam which was broken on the bottom of the door , lifted the door up and carefully fed the water line through the new bottom hinge . Attached the top hinge and reassembled the rest same as I had dissambled it . Turned on water ( checked for leaks ) ! All working 100% a-ok ! This company is the best ! Ordered the part at 1 pm and had the part at 2 pm the following day many thanks : )
Fan would not turn when the refrigerator came on all the time. Would physically have to turn the fan blades.
Did not do the repair because the unit arrived damaged. The packaging was in good condition. The plastic around the plug in shattered, and some of the plastic was inside the motor. Very good, and fast on adjusting the order.
freezer too cold and refrigerator not cold enough because fan not working
Had to defrost a bit and then was able to remove rear freezer panel by simply removing the 2 screws holding it in place. Old motor easily removed from its mounting bracket. and replaced with the new. Had to use the two wires sent with the motor. I clipped off the male connectors and joined them with wire splicers to the black and red wires clipped from the old motor. Then reinstalled. The replacement motor works great. I was afraid the old fan blade might not fit but it slid on perfectly.
Original evaporator fan (31 years old) was making a lot of worn bearing noise
Empty freezer; Remove shelves and ice trays; Unscrew and remove the rear vertical panel; Unscrew and remove fan housing; Unscrew and remove fan from fan housing; Fan blade slides off the motor shaft without tools. Reverse order to reassemble with new fan motor.
I did have to use the wire extensions that were included as the replacement motor had the electric connections in a different location from the original motor.
I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.