CS5100XWW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The hardest part is figuring out how to get the unit open. You have to take out the brackets that appear to hold on the timer section and you have to remove the screws under the lint filter. Once you have the top off then you remove the screws that hold the front panel on from the inside. I decided not to remove the drum it seemed like a lot of hassle, instead I went down and got a right angle screwdriver, the terminal valves are in the front of the unit and you only have to remove 2 screws to remove the retainer which holds them both in place. The drum is in the way so you can't use a regular screwdriver and the right angle is a bit slow going but I think it is actually faster than removing and replacing the drum for a novice like myself. Replacing the coils took about 2 minutes and then reassembly another half hour. But the Dryer works great again and for $70 it was well worth it.

Watched the how to video on the parts select site. The job to replace the motor was easy although I had some issues with the blower fan wheel as it is made of plastic and was frozen to the motor, yes I turned it the correct way for the left hand threads. I ended up distroying the blower fan wheel and had to buy a new one. I had to remove the rear plate to get at the fan component, but thta was easy to do also. This site should add a "Sometimes bought together" comment for the motor replacement. After all was done I read some of the other comments and found some others had the same problem with the fan wheel. Once I had all the parts the dryer went back together fairly quickly. The job was easy to do and I would believe almost anyone could do it.

just the way the video showd me

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

After shutting off the gas supply and unplugging the electrical cord, I used a flat blade screwdriver to loosen the exhaust vent clamp and remove the vent tube from the outlet. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver I removed the screw holding the plate covering the electrical lead connection to the power supply, then I pulled the plate back and disengaged the tab from the cutout in the back of the dryer body to remove it. I then removed the eight screws holding the back cover of the dryer in place, then removed the cover. The thermal fuse is located near the bottom of the dryer at the back, just above the exhaust vent. I loosened the two screws holding it in place using the 1/4-inch nut driver, then I removed the two electrical leads from the fuse. I inserted the new thermal fuse and screwed it into place, then reinstalled the electrical leads. I then reinstalled the back cover, the power-cord cover, and the vent hose. I turned the gas supply back on and plugged the electrical cord back in.

removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior

It is a washer/dryer combo. First I unplugged the unit. I had to remove the top and front of the dryer, remove the belt and remove the drum. I then removed the side panel that the motor was on. That was a little tricky getting at a couple of the screws. I then took the flywheel off which was somewhat difficult. It screws off in the opposite direction and was hard to get loose. I unplugged the motor, no wires to connect. There is a clip on the front and back of the motor holding it in place. Take them off and the motor comes right out. Replace the new motor and screw the flywheel back on. Install the clips, plug the motor in and put everything back as you took it apart.

Took the back off the dryer. Disconnected the old thermostat and installed the new thermostat. Connected the back of dryer. Put in a load of clothes to dry and the clothes were dry on the first try. Works like a new dryer. Saved a lot of money not having to buy a new dryer when all I had to do was replace some old parts.

removed front panel and drum and replaced drum support rollers

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX