CRGA700AAL Admiral Range - Instructions

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Followed the directions on the video. Very easy to do.

The burner head caps on my Magic Chef no longer work and had to be replaced. I ordered 1 of the 4 caps to see how it would work out for me. I did not have any issues replace the cap. I contacted PartSelect and order the other 3 caps. The sales representative took my order and was EXTREMELY helpful. Now I know why all of my neighbors choose PartSelect. Including the cleaning, it did not take me more than 15 minutes. The video was also extremely helpful. Our Magic Chef should be good for another 6-8 years. Thanks PartSelect.

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

turn burner cap counter clock wise lift out remove to leads,do not have to turn power off they are mini volts.Insert the two (leads)weirs on to new cap,twist back in done.Fire it up.

Once I noticed the oven failed to light, I checked the igniter and saw it was glowing. At that point I did some research and found that the igniter could still be bad even though it glowed. This was the most common cause of ovens not lighting. A bad igniter will not glow as bright as a new one. An igniter had to draw a minimum of 2.8 amps in order for the safety valve to open and supply gas to the burner. After checking the safety valve with an ohmmeter, I found it to be good, so I ordered a new igniter. Once I received the new part , it took about 20 minutes to install.

My first suggestion, after turning off the power to the unit, is to take the oven door off. Two simple screws and it's off! It makes getting to the temperature sensor much easier. I also moved the oven out so I could get access to the back to remove the rear panel. The ordered part came with two pigtails, neither of which fit my oven wiring harness. I cut one of them and the wiring from the faulty sensor, spliced them together with wire nuts and made my own connection harness. The new sensor went in with little effort. The wiring went together flawlessly with the spliced connection protected between the oven cavity and rear panel. Reattached the rear panel and the oven door, then slid the oven back into place. Turned on the electricity and back to normal! Problem resolved!!

Replaced stripped screws with 632 by 3/8 bolts and nuts. Your video helped with the rest of the installation.

Removed the grates. Slightly twist the burner assemblies counterclockwise and lift out. Remove igniter wires. Remove four burner gaskets. Remove four screws holding the assembly to the range top. Lift and slide the range top from the range. Using a wrench, loosen the four brass fittings on the tubing at the controls. Remove the orifice and tubing assemblies. Reverse the procedure to install the new assemblies taking care to position the igniter wires near each opening so that they are easy to grasp and reattach to the burners.

Unplug power cord to oven.Remove lower panel from inside of oven to access flame rail cover.Remove wingnut from cover to access flamerail and igniter.Using phillips head screwdriver,remove 2 screws from lower access plate located at rear of oven to access igniter wiring.Disconnect both wires, then using a nutdriver,unscrew and remove igniter from flamerail.To install, simply reverse instructions.It was extremely simple and fun to do.But most rewarding of all was the sense of accomplishment from doing the repair myself not to mention of course the money i saved not having to call a technician. Thanks guys!

Upon receiving the replacement part, I noted that the socket was held in place by simple expanding tabs. TURN OFF POWER TO THE OVEN. Using a right angle pick or similar tool, bend the tabs inward on the existing socket and remove. Disconnect the white, black and green wires. Note which tab is the green tab. Attach the wires to the new socket. Push the new socket into place, aligning the key bump on the socket with he slot in the oven wall opening. Install bulb and diffuser.

My wife watched the instruction video on the computer and replaced the oven sensor with a screwdriver in just a few minutes with no problems. Just make sure you order the right sensor. She ordered the short one by mistake and had to return it and order the Long Oven Sensor.

Because of the video provided by Parts Select I felt confident before even starting and that confidence stayed with me to the end..I removed bottom of oven , removed the philips screw in the front end of the burner and removed it.. Losened and removed the igniter replaced it and reassembled..The only caution I can give, if you find the screws holding the ignited on the burner hard to take off, apply a SMALL amount of WD40 to the threads and wait a couple minutes before removing..I was fortunat in the fact that my plug matched the replacement part with no cutting of wires..I normally don't get breaks like that.. Thanks Parts Select.

Placed new knob directly on post. No problem

First turn gas off at pipe. Remove oven door, racks and bottom cover. Go to back of oven and unplug oven igniter. Back in front, unscrew 2 nut screws from igniter. To make things easier I tied a piece of string to the plug of the igniter, once I unscrewed the igniter I pulled it out with the string attached. When replacing I tied the string to the plug of the new igniter and pulled it from the back so the plug was able to come through, plug in the new igniter, screw it in place, replace the racks, covers, door and you're ready to enjoy some baking