CRG750 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

replaced grates

Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.

Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.

Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.

The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.

To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacing the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

Thank you PartSelect. I am a single mother and when my thermostat knob broke I thought I was going to have to buy a new stove. But I went on-line to see if the knob was available to purchase. Finding and ordering the knob couldn't have been easier on your website and I had it in my hand in 2 days. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.

Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

I order the replacement parts from parts select and they arrived in 3 days. To remove the old parts it only required an open end wrench and a screw driver. The gas lines were removed from the valves and the entire tubing system was unscrewed from the range top. As the tubing was broken this was easy. As for the installation of the new parts that was a bit more difficult. Freddy helped me hold the range top up about 4" in the front and the tubing had to be carefully bent to mate with the valve fitting. With all the fittings tightened the oven was tested for leaks and all was ok. The burners were all working and the home that was without a stove for 8 weeks is now ccoking with gas. As anote I did place two metal tabs on the oven with pop rivets so Freddy won't break the new lines.

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.