CRE8700BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

Turned off the power at the breaker box. Removed the two screws, pulled the element out about 3 inches, disconnected the two wires, reconnected the two wires to the new element, inserted element back into place, screwed in the screws...all finished...works great! Delivery was super fast...just a great experience all the way around.

Being a woman, I first cleaned the oven. Removed two screws holding the element in place. Pulled element out about 3 inches and disconnected one clip attached to a yellow wire another clip attached to a green wire. Put new element in connected clips. Replaced screws.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Pulled the oven away from the wall. Removed two screws inside the oven. Pulled old heating element out. When I did I heard a loud pop and and saw smoke. I assumed the element would not be electrically live if the oven was not on. That was obviously incorrect. I pulled the plug and then completed the installation. I went to chruch on Sunday and thanked God that I was not electrocuted. Now the oven works fine. My wife wanted the oven to die so that she could get a new alppliance, Instead I am alive.

Seriously your service was great. Your web site pointed me to the correct part, and it arrived the next day! I would definitely use your service again if I remember your name.

Removed the two screws that hold the back glass in place. Rotated old bulb out of it's lamp fixture and replaced it with the new bulb. Replaced glass and reinstalled the screws.
The hardest part was finding the bulb ... a very unique 18W flourescent. I wasted a couple of hours trying to locate it locally at my regular suppliers. The order at PatsSelect was easy and direct and the bulb was on my doorstep 3 days later .. an exact fit. Thanks guys.

1st removed the sealed burners
2nd removed stove top
3rd removed oven door
4th removed left and right side pannels to access door hinges
5th removed left and right hinges
6th installed new left and right hinges
then re-installed other components in reverse order.
The oven door now opens and closes properly, the heat stays in the oven!!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Using the description on the first DIY, I did as told. All went well until the part about removing the panel to access the hinge. There isn't a "panel" on the side of this particular model of Magic Chef stove. You have to remove the entire side of the stove, and then, there's another panel inside of this one. That too has to come off. Once off, you're into the insulation surrounding the oven. Ain't pretty, I'll assure you. Then, the replacement hinge has holes in it for the mounting screws. The holes aren't threaded, and you have to replace the screws that come with the hinge with self-tapping screws. Either that, or thread the holes with a tap. Thank goodness my wife loves the stove, or it may have just gone out the door. This is not one of Magic Chefs better ideas. Either that, or they didn't plan on having to replace the hinge before the stove wore out.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.