CPMC3085KF1 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!

This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.

Troubleshoot element by disconnecting the element leads from relay board and test for acceptable resistance across leads. In my case the element had tested open with no resistance.

******You may not need to remove oven depending on how the framing under the oven is constructed.

**** Before you begin, disconnect power from the oven.

1.Remove two screws under oven, directly below rear of element door, and remove the metal piece the screws held in place. This will free up the back of the element access door panel.
2.Remove front trim strip on front bottom of oven, this will expose two screws directly behind trim strip. Remove the two screws behind the trim strip. This will free up the front of the element access door.
3. Lower element access door. If you can open the element door enough to disconnect the element wire leads and get the element out, you can swap out the element now and will not need to pull your oven out of the wall. If you can't open the access panel to fully access and replace element, slide the oven out until you can get the access door open and prop the front of the oven up on something sturdy you have laying around. In my case it was the good old yeti cooler. I would seriously consider removing the oven doors before you slide the oven out. It will make the oven alot less tippy by removing the weight from the front off the appliance. The element wires are short, you may need to disconnect them to get the element access door all the way open.
4. Install the new element and reassemble using these instructions in reverse order.
5. Reconnect power.
6. Make a batch of cookies.

0. Turn off breaker to oven
1 Remove two screws holding oven into enclosure.
2. Remove trim piece from bottom.
3. Open oven door, and engage part on hinge which keeps door from closing all the way. Now, door can be lifted and removed, set aside.
4. Slide oven out. This is very heavy, and it's best to have two people as well as something slightly lower than the oven to put it on, I used a chair.
5. Remove microwave trim, 4 screws.
6. Remove baffle which protects microwave power cord.
7. Loosen 4 screws from bottom of microwave. I used a Screwdriver bit with a pliers, as there isn't much room. Slide microwave forward or back, and microwave can be lifted from oven.
8. Remove 4 screws on side, 2 security Star screws on bottom of back, and 3 regular screws on back.
9. Remove top heat shield, and top/sides cover. Danger, do not plug in microwave with top/side cover missing. Also, capacitor on right/back may hold dangerous voltages, short the terminals using well-insulated tool. There is a bleed resistor which is supposed to do this, but you can never be too careful.
10. Open microwave drawer. Unscrew the front control panel from the inside. Remove plastic part the door open button usually moves, the part needs to be pulled to the left side to be removed. Take a picture of the wires attached to the switches on the latch plate, so you put them back correctly.
11. Remove wire connectors from switches. These connectors have a retaining feature, if you push the retaining feature, it doesn't take too much force to remove it. There are 6 wires. Remove the latch plate, there may be a screw or two.
12. Take note of which switches are normally own and normally closed. They have to go back the same way. I mainly took out the latch plate because the switches stopped working, a couple had welded themselves together internally. But, I had to replace the latch plate because I improperly removed the switches and broke the plate. The switches are held in place by a pin through the switch, a couple of static parts from the latch plate, and a tab which sticks up from the bottom of the latch plate. The pin is very fragile. Depress the tan from the bottom of the latch plate, and the switch should rotate on the pin. Do not release the tab until the such has rotated past it. Now, you can lift the switch.
13. Reverse all of these steps with the new patch plate to put everything back together. You might want to test the microwave before reattaching it to the oven.
14. To put the oven back into the cavity, it's best to lean the back edge over the bottom of the cavity, then lift the oven from the front and slide it in.

1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.

replaced it

On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.

Removed unit from above stove removed outer housing, interior shield and tested the 4 door relays. One was not working. Replaced parts and re installed unit over stove.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

I purchased one relay switch (there are three) took one out one by one and replced it with the new one and tested it each time until it worked. Super easy and saved me hundreds of dollars by doing this myself.

Much like the other post: 1. Removw vent case on top (3 screws) 2. Remove cover with control buttons (1 screw). 3. Removed bottom relay switch and replaced. Tight working space so be patient. Took 15 minutes Needle nose pliers used to crimp connector onto switch

I managed to move the auger far enough to allow me to insert the cup-drive and then realign the auger with the new cup-drive. I also have had one to break very shortly after installing it. This is my second part to replace and this one went really smooth, since I understood that the initial parts installation instructions did not apply on my ice maker.